Aluminum or steel driveshaft ?

[rszmjt]

Originally Posted by big gear head

The M20 won't hold up to that much power if you use slicks.

X2 you will be taking it home in a Dixie cup . Clutch management will help but?

As far as the driveshaft the aluminum is easier to accelerate as its rotating mass, my T/S car was faster with aluminum

[Andy]

I have a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my 67 Camaro and it has taken everything my 525 hp 406 has thrown at it with no problem. Lifetime warranty on U-joints as well.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_...iveshafts.html

[Amusa]

Originally Posted by 67 Nova Boy

X2...what Freddie said

I concur

[Too Many Projects]

Been looking into driveshafts for this and the length is an issue with critical rotational rpm. The shaft, itself, will be about 58" and at that length and a 6500 rpm speed, Denny's is the only one who will touch this. All the others drop out at about 52-4" for that rpm.

I just talked with their phone rep and I will, most likely, be ordering their 3.5" nitrous ready pro package with Mark Williams yokes on both ends. Their 4" aluminum isn't all that much more, but since I need new rear gears and stronger axles too, I'll stay with the steel. Thinking about Mark Williams for the gears and axles too. The Strange gears for street/strip warn they are susceptible to teeth breaking under heavy shock loads and not really suitable for drag racing with slicks...hmmm. I don't need to break them next, so will be talking with Mark Williams about their street/strip gears and axles soon.
Need to decide if I want to modify the axle tubes for bolt in axles first...

[markjohnson]

Don’t forget that MW & Strange use different pressure angles on their splines so the differential (or spool) and axles must be both from the same manufacturer.

[markjohnson]

BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!

[Too Many Projects]

Originally Posted by markjohnson

BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!

Diff carrier is original Eaton, and no, I'm not into this seriously, just don't need to break anything else when I do play.

Breaking the tail housing off at SCR was the least expensive part to replace.

[dustinm]

Originally Posted by markjohnson

BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!

They are the strongest and have infinite shaft speed, but are not at all abrasion resistant and not recommended for street car applications for that reason.

[big gear head]

You have to be sure that you have clearance for a larger diameter shaft. You don't want it rubbing on something like exhaust pipes or floor braces.

I doubt that you would need to go with c clip eliminators if you buy quality axles. C clip eliminators have their own set of problems when used on the street. For one thing they tend to leak oil on your brakes. Once you install c clip eliminators it's very hard to go back to original.

[oldstv]

The nice thing about carbon is if you brake a U joint and the shaft hits the ground. It will not beat the bottom of the car up. I have a carbon shaft on a 4k lb car that makes 800 at the tires cutting a 1.39 60 with a carbon shaft.