Door Lock Issue

[Bill Pritchard]

I have a door lock cylinder on the drivers door that the key goes about half way in and just stops. I have removed it from the car and had sprayed a bunch of graphited lock fluid in and let it sit for several days....no improvement. The corresponding lock on the passenger door works just fine with the key, and both cylinders have the same code number. My Fisher Body manual says in order to access the workings of the lock cylinder (tumblers, etc.) one must remove the "scalp" but there is no corresponding picture or diagram. I am guessing the "scalp" is the stainless covering that is visible on the outside of the car when the lock cylinder is installed. It also says that the scalp is normally destroyed in the process, but service replacements are available(!?) Anyone have any experience or advice in this regard?

[STF455]

The stainless steel cap can probably be found in most GM parts departments, if you have to resort to taking the cylinder apart. They used the same caps until the late 90's on some GM vehicles.

Check for a broken off key, then douse it good with penetrating oil (like WD40)- sometimes the pot metal cylinder gets crusty and you can work it loose without disassembly. The tumblers and springs in the cylinder can try your patience if you haven't dealt with them before.

[Bill Pritchard]

Sean,

Thanks for the tip about the broken key. That prompted me to go out to the garage and give the lock assembly a few good whacks on my wooden workbench top. Sure enough, that dislodged a broken key and with a little finesse, I was able to work it out without further disassembly. The lock works fine now! Thanks again so much for the tip [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/worship.gif[/img]

[Postsedan]

Never under-estimate they knowledge of this website - well done [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif[/img]

Dan

[earntaz]

AND those that will share their knowledge -- especially in this forum ... all super people dedicated to their passion ... CLASSIC CARS!!!

THANKS TO ALL -- TAZ

[Bill Pritchard]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/youguysrock.gif[/img]

[Tracker1]

yenko.net Friday Good Guy Award goes to STF455

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

[mockingbird812]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] Never ceases to amaze me!!

[Bill Pritchard]

OK, now that the door lock issue is solved I have a problem with the glove box lock.

Glove box lock assembly seemed very loosey-goosey and had paint overspray all over it so I decided to pull it out to check and refresh. Under the best of circumstances, these are difficult to remove as you really need three or four hands. This one was a real struggle to remove, but somehow I did get it out. Once removed, I notice that the lock 'code' for the glove box lock is a different code than the trunk lock is. Key works fine in the trunk lock, but after a whole lot of fiddling around today, I cannot get the glove box lock to turn with the key (despite the fact that I somehow did get it turned to the lock position in order to remove the lock in the first place!).

Is there someone that sells specific-coded glove box locks, or is this something a competent auto lock shop could rework?

[Postsedan]

Bill,

When you go to the Chassis Dyno.....have them look at it.....this way Marilee may not say you have not thrown enough money into her [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img]

IF NOT, A GOOD OLD TIME LOCKSMITH CAN HELP YOU.

Dan