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Old 05-28-2005, 04:09 AM
Chris396 Chris396 is offline
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Default removing exhaust manifolds

What's the best way to remove my exhaust manifolds with smog tubes? Soak the bolts in WD40? Or should I get some other type of stuff to soak the bolts?
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Old 05-28-2005, 05:08 AM
Supercar_Kid Supercar_Kid is offline
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Default Re: removing exhaust manifolds


Get some of this stuff, it's called P.B. B'laster. You can buy it at NAPA, or similar professional parts stores. Soak the bolts, studs, and smog tubes with the stuff and let them sit for an hour or so. Then just use some good quality hand tools and try your best not to twist the ends on the smog tubes. Good luck.
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Old 05-28-2005, 05:23 AM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Default Re: removing exhaust manifolds

I would soak them in two or three different types of penetrating oil. Alternate each night for three or four nights. Good old WD40 is a good start. I also like Liquid Wrench. Wurth makes a great product called Rostoff (crazy Germans had to spell it differently).


If the engine is still in the car, you probably can't access the bolts with an impact gun. If it is on the stand, then using an impact gun with a 6 point socket is the best way to break them loose. But... I don't mean just put it on an let it rip. Hit it lightly, alternating directions, but letting it "hit" a little longer when going left. Hope this makes sense. If you don't have access to an impact gun, use a QUALITY box end wrench, a Snap-on if you have one or can borrow one. I have seen repair manuals that state you should pull smoothly on the wrench. Bull. Best way is to tap it with a ball peen hammer. Start out with light blows, again alternating directions. You are trying to break up all the old corrosion and possibly even some fused metal. It takes sharp raps with the hammer, but not a gorilla's touch. Hard to explain without showing.

The bolts that hold the manifolds to the heads will probably come out a lot easier than the smog tubes.
I am assuming you want to remove them as well?

Same procedure as above except use a quality flare nut wrench (commonly called a "line wrench" by mechanics). Again Snap-on is my first choice. Also, depending upon the age of the flare nuts, they may have actually "shrunk" a bit over the years from corrosion. If you have access to a 14mm flare nut wrench, try it out. It is a few thousanths of an inch smaller than the 9/16" and if it will fit on the nut, will transfer more of the hammer blows.

Best of luck to you.

Lynn
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