Twisted doors on 69 Camaro

[Lynn]

Posting on multiple sites hoping for a good answer.
Both doors stick out just a little too much at the bottom rear. Right side is worse than left.
Front of door sits even with the rocker
Both are the original factory doors.
Car has never been hit, and no dents were taken out of the doors other than tiny door dings. All original sheet metal except for GM valance and header.
Yes, I had both doors off the car at one time to rebuild the hinges.
Factory hinges with new bushings.
I can't adjust them in at the bottom hinge or the front of the door is too far in and won't line up with the rocker.
I can adjust them out at the top hinge and make the back line up fine, but then the fender has to be moved out a corresponding amount at the top and the hood to fender gaps are unacceptable.

What am I missing?
Are the factory doors just that bad a fit?

[John Brown]

I had a really good body man that would twist doors to make the bottoms line up. It involved blocks of wood and Jack Armstrong.

[Lynn]

Exactly what I thought. I actually improved the right one a little by having my wife hold an axe handle in the jamb at the top rear while I lay down and push on the bottom of the door with my feet. I spread the load out by putting a 30" 2x4 across the bottom of the door. It did make it better, but I wanted to see if there were any better alternatives before doing it some more.

Thinking I need to do this a little more before final paint. Good chance I would damage new paint.

[Igosplut]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John Brown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had a really good body man that would twist doors to make the bottoms line up. It involved blocks of wood and Jack Armstrong. </div></div>

I remember hearing that this was the way they did it on the assembly line also...

[BARRY]

HI
the best way take the window out and twist the door hold the top and push in the bottom corner with the door open makes a huge differance with the window out counts how strong you are

[Lynn]

Thanks Barry. The window is already out, along with everything else. Down to a bare shell.
Five years ago it would have been no problem, but my strength is declining fast. I am currently scheduled for shoulder surgery Dec. 7, which is one reason I am trying to get this painted and at least the front clip set on. My inlaws are coming this week for the holidays, and I have parts stacked on their bed in our guest room.

Anyway, I think I can get it using some leg power. Probably just need one more helper, which I think I can drum up.

Thanks to all.

[bluel78]

I resolved this problem by using a block of wood between the door and jamb at the top of the door and using a ratchet strap on the bottom. The strap could go to the other door or use the seat belt anchor hole. This tip works good to form new weatherstrip as well. Dustin

[Lynn]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bluel78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I resolved this problem by using a block of wood between the door and jamb at the top of the door and using a ratchet strap on the bottom. The strap could go to the other door or use the seat belt anchor hole. This tip works good to form new weatherstrip as well. Dustin </div></div>

Yeah, I think you are on to something. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking of something like this. Actually pictured a chain, but the strap would probably be safer.
Because the body is so light right now, being down to the bare shell, I am afraid pushing on a 2x4 at the bottom of the door, I could knock it off the jack stands. So, will do something like you are describing. Thanks.

[Lynn]

OK. Got the twists out of both doors. Right side took some serious effort. Left side one pull.

Was going to use a chain bolted to the bottom of the car via seat belt bolt hole and rear suspension bolt hole. But... Dustin mentioned ratchet straps. Really didn’t want to use a chain as the underside is already detailed and didn’t want to scratch it.

I pulled out one of the giant ratchet straps, suitable for towing trucks. Wrapped it all the way around the floors with both doors open. Adjusted it just right for slack, which took a little trial and error.. Placed a 2x4 against the bottom of the door and used a 6 foot 2.x6 turned sideways for the lever. Placed a broken axe handle in the top of the door jamb. Took about 10 good hard pulls on the left side, but she lines up perfectly now. Took only one on the right side. We (my fabulous supportive wife and I) were able to put so much leverage on it that we had to pull hard on the top of the door to keep from picking up the right side of the car.

Took the camera out to take a pic of the procedure, but darn thing said the card was not readable. Crap.

Now I have to go back out with the long board and see how bad I distorted the bottom of the door if any. Keeping my fingers crossed

[Lynn]

As I suspected, the right side door ended up slightly distorted at the bottom where the skin is attached to the shell. Long board (aluminim with no padding) showed it up right away. Dinged down the high spot, sanded it again and will skim it with a very thn coat of sprayable filler. Should be able to sand and paint tomorrow.

No distortion at all on the driver's door.