View Full Version : Scuncio Chevelle ex-L78
Well I bought a white on white 1969 SS396 Chevelle. I did not go see the car, just looked at pictures, so the car is not all I hoped/thought it was. I have been looking and checking the car over, and if anyone has any info, or knows the car, I would like to find out all I can. Car has papers and is a factory L-78 car, sold through Scuncio Chevrolet.
I know the car went through Barrett-Jackson last Oct. with the black stripes down the sides, but car does not have the stripes now. Checking showed new quarters and a new trunk floor. Also looks like front end may have been off for work. New paint job explains where the stripes went.
Salesman told me the engine was not original and was just a big block of some sort. Well, he couldn’t have been more wrong. Engine is a date code correct L-78 from a Camaro that was also built with a Turbo-400. Engine and rear end were built 1 day apart.
Turbo-400 is from a 1970 oval port hydraulic cam engine, but it shifts good.
But everything is sort of a mess.
There is rust, with some pin holes, probably get bigger when the work starts, around where the trunk seal goes. Lower portion mainly.
Interior shows signs of mold, like the car set for a period. Needs replaced.
Under the hood needs plenty. Spark plugs were wrong for the engine, plug wires a mess, PCV hose routed wrong, needs new wiring harnesses, radiator cap wrong, battery box rusted, etc. Wrong carb, inner fender liners cut for headers.......
Lots to do.....but if anyone knows much about the car I would like to hear from you. Thanks
the427king
09-07-2019, 04:19 AM
I was interested in the car and spoke to the dealer. He was very difficult to get any answers from. He said he didnt know if the rear was OEM but told me it was a race car so I guess that was code for it wasnt,he never got back with me on it .. I did notice they did a quickie respray after they bought it, I thought the car looked better before they sprayed it certainly from a color standpoint .The fact he was so evasive about everything made me not pursue it further. He didnt have it marked up a ton ,I just dont understand why 99 percent of dealers never have high quality cars they are proud to sell ..probably because you cant have alot of inventory unless you buy marginal cars ...from the price he gave me he couldnt have made much if anything ......still a documented scuncio car w great colors..enjoy it I'm sure people in the northwest know of it .
Xplantdad
09-07-2019, 04:24 AM
Here's some info on the same car, i think?
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=156463&highlight=Scuncio
:beers:
Pics just before the dealer sold it.http://wwva.worldwidevintageautos.com/1969/cheverolet/chevelle-ss/vin-no.-136379g342327/stock-no.-mhm3057
Yes!....the427king, getting any info from the dealer was almost impossible. Just getting a call back was hard.
I also thought the car looked a lot better in the Barrett-Jackson auction pictures, but I don’t know if some of that could have been the sitting and light. I didn’t think I saw any reason from the auction pictures as to why someone would put new quarters on it.
Car looks solid around the front and back windows. No rust that I see.
Pulled the rear seat and the floor looks great.
the427king
09-07-2019, 09:55 PM
Congrats...Good luck with it!
Well I have 4 wheel brakes now...lol. Only the rear drum brakes were working when I got the car. I replaced some of the drum brake hardware parts so that the springs that hold the brake shoes in place sit straight and work properly. Car came with new brake drums on it. Replaced all 3 brake hoses as the 2 front hoses showed some fraying and all looked original. Front calipers were ‘frozen’...so had to replace them. I had a hard time bleeding the calipers, vacuum did not work to pull fluid through system for bleeding. I had to have someone push the brake pedal to ever get the system bleed.
Also the car would drain the battery if it sit overnight. I determined that the alternator, which was not the right one for the car, was the cause and have replaced it.
After all that I did take the car for a short 3 mile ride. Much more work to do. Car seems to sit way to high. I know it has 15” tires and wheels but it still feels like it is much higher than normal when driving. Rear fender welds are much higher than the tires. May need to replace coil springs. What is left of ‘Hurst’ stickers/decals on the shocks.
Oh well, I am making progress
Question.....was putting stiffer/taller rear springs in these cars something racers did....to maybe clear larger, wider, slicks?
Thanks
Postsedan
09-29-2019, 10:08 PM
Question.....was putting stiffer/taller rear springs in these cars something racers did....to maybe clear larger, wider, slicks?
Thanks
Tom,
Yes, they did.
Glad you are improving the car :)
Not meaning to steal your thread.....if anyone is looking for a real deal 1969 L78 Chevelle with it's original born-with engine.
This one is still available.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=151403
Dan
Thanks.....and yes I’m trying to improve the car but don’t plan on a restoration
Couple of quick questions if anyone can help. There is a new engine wiring harness on the car but the lead for the oil pressure sensor has a round female end and the pressure sensor itself has a male blade. Pictures I see on line of the sensor for a car with gauges shows a sensor with a male blade like I have.
Also should there be a 45 degree brass fitting between the engine block and the pressure sensor.
Hopefully someone has more knowledge or a better memory than I do.
Thanks for all help !
tunes
10-05-2019, 09:45 PM
The round end for the oil sensor is correct. Oil sensors with the flat terminal like you have are not correct. You should also have the 45 degree brass fitting that the sending unit screws into. I don't have pictures to show you but I'm sure someone here can come up with them.
tunes
10-11-2019, 11:56 PM
Found this picture, courtesy of Rick Nelson. This is what you should have if your Chevelle has the factory gauge package.
OK. Right now it only has the large round sensor screwed into the block. I can get the other parts, but they might be current reproduction pieces.
But the sensor I have, and the ones I have seen for sell, all have the blade terminal. I will fashion an adapter to connect the wire and sensor.
Right now I have the car in the shop to get the body/metal fixed around the trunk seal.
Thanks again Robert
I had the car in the body shop to get the rust around the trunk seal fixed, new metal was put in place, and I had the hood pins and the goofy (to me) 396 emblems removed from the hood. I picked the car up today and it looks a lot better now.
Lots to do now to get the car's mechanicals straightened out.
Does anybody know where to get a good set of rear springs for the car. Maybe even a part number? Thanks
wheelhop
02-03-2020, 12:27 AM
If you go into an auto parts store and talk to a guy behind counter who knows what he's doing, they should be able to look up your car and it's options and find you the correct springs. I prefer an "old school" store with a guy who's been in the business for a long time versus a O'Reilly's or similar chain.
SS427
02-03-2020, 12:34 AM
Found this picture, courtesy of Rick Nelson. This is what you should have if your Chevelle has the factory gauge package.
Actually that photo is courtesy of Dan Vasic if I recall correctly and I just used it as a sample. Can't remember for sure as my brain was quite foggy back then.
the427king
02-28-2020, 10:33 PM
Any new photos??
No I haven't taken any pictures. Maybe now that the weather is getting better and I can start doing something I can get a few pics
Here is a picture I took today with the 396 emblems and the hood pins removed from the hood of the car.
I've been removing the old bushings from a set of used rear control arms I have that are boxed. Next I will need to get them cleaned up and put on a fresh coat of paint.
After that I will try and get the rear-end out from under the car. There are still some tabs welded on the axle housing from old traction arms, and the 'posi' doesn't seem to posi any longer. I would like to look at the axles and of course the car needs new shocks.
It doesn't seem sometimes like I getting much done ... but if I keep moving, I might make it.
GrumpyJeff
03-28-2020, 12:16 AM
Gonna be a neat car when your finished ! just keep chipping away a little at a time, and before you know you'll have it where you want it . I've always enjoyed these type of project cars way more than the full restoration,"show car"/ types.
Thanks GrumpyJeff. Some of this work is dirty, tiring stuff. Wears me out and I have lots of muscle aches. But I still hope to make it a solid reliable car that I can drive and enjoy. And like you say, I may just get to enjoy it a lot more than some of the 'show car'/types.
I did order the new rear control arm bushings, rear shocks, and rear coil spring seat insulators today.
Here is a picture of the rear control arms all cleaned up. They have a rust treatment on them and will need to be painted and then have the bushings pressed in.
I have been making some progress but it is going slow. Replacing the tail light extension gaskets and tail light lens gaskets to stop/prevent leaks...as well as stoping leaks from the side marker lights. Also looks like I will have to put in another new trunk seal. The shop that fixed the rust on the lower portion of the trunk seal area seems to have put the seal in 'backwards' ... oh well.
Still hoping to get it all sorted out before to long.
Well, I got the gas tank out of the car yesterday. I wanted to see what I could see about how, and how well, the new trunk floor was installed (in my humble opinion) and I also wanted to look inside the gas tank to see what condition it was/is in.
Everything on the body looks good. Just a little wire brushing, mainly on the frame, and then I treated everything with Permatex rust treatment.
Today I painted the frame and all the seems and the panels. Looks good.
So on to the gas tank. I'll get it open, drain it and and see if it is still a good tank. I know it wasn't leaking or anything, so there is hope.
My gas tank was in good shape. Little surface rust on outside but inside look really good. Cleaned it good outside, painted it with POR-15 and then painted it. Have it back in so now I'll try and get the back bumper re-installed.
Having the bumper back on and everything together....today I pulled the axles and differential out of the rear-end.
Before removing things I tried rotating the driver side wheel forward to see if the passenger side wheel also turned forward. It sort of did, but not like the posi was really working well.
With the rear cover off I could see that it did have a posi diff., so I'm thinking probably a 4:10 gear. Counting gear teeth I had a 3:08.
Funny thing to me was the carrier had 1 thick shim on one side and 1 thick shim on the other side. Like it was a factory install.....I think.
i will have to have a close look now at the posi diff. to see what it needs.
I have a complete 3:31 posi rear out of a 70 Chevelle but don't think the gear change would make a 'big' enough difference on acceleration to give up the highway drivability of the 3:08's.
Thoughts ?
big gear head
06-17-2020, 01:30 AM
I've had 3.31 gears in 2 Chevelles and liked them.
Think I'm going to stay with the 3.08 gears for now.
I've put new clutches I got from Summit Racing in the posi, the side gears and spider gears sit up without play, so I should have a working posi now.
But I was wondering......I think the center posi springs I have are the 'stock' 200# springs, was wondering if I should replace them with the 400# springs.
What are most people doing?
Eaton said the new metal clutches (stock I thought) are very aggressive ...would that change what posi springs I should run ?
big gear head ... I noticed on another thread you talked about 'daisy' clutch plates and telling another person to get the solid clutch plates.
Looking at the picture in that other post I could not tell just what you were talking about, as the plates in the picture looked like all the plates I think I have even seen....never having seen to many (very few in fact).
Car is coming along fine, if a little slow (I'm old). I've got all of the rear end back together. I put the rebuilt 'boxed' control arms on as everything was coming together also.
Things are looking good, I have a transmission pan that is leaking so I will fix it next, then on to the engine compartment.
scuncio
08-10-2020, 11:44 PM
It looks great! ‘69s look sharp in white.
BLACKLS5
08-11-2020, 12:38 AM
Looking good Sir...
Still working on the car. Had to order a new radiator, old one had a repaired spot in the core and the tubes looked like they had lots of crud in them, so I just got a new one.
Also got a new power steering pump, but the stud on the back side was in the wrong hole so I am waiting while another one comes in.
Changed out the transmission filter and fluid .... everything was super clean. Maybe not to long since it was rebuilt.
Being under this car .... a lot .... I have noticed that at one time the whole underneath of it was painted yellow. Don't know if that was for racing - so it would show up - or if it was some rust treatment that put on years ago. Oh, well.
Wanted to say thanks to 'scuncio and BLACKLS5
Still working on the car but lots of what I'm doing is slow and not exciting work.
1)The water pump hub studs had to be changed out for longer ones. The nuts only grabbed a thread or two on what had been in there.
2)Whoever installed the new engine wiring harness didn't know what they were doing and put the wire terminal sealer on the wrong side - "gunked-up" the connection with the fuse panel.
3)I had three different size (lengths) of mounting cushions for the radiator. Only one was right for a BB 4-core.
4)Battery cables were a mile to long.
5)Parking light assemblies were bad so I ordered two new ones. Drivers side fit but I had to modify the passenger side. On this car there is a different spacing for the mounting holes drilled in the bumper, but the new replacement lights were equally spaced.
6)I got a new power steering pump from a local auto parts store and it didn't fit because it was a 'Type II" pump. Ordered a new pump from a Chevelle supply place but it didn't fit either because the tube for the return line went on was located in the back of the pump housing. I finally ordered one for a 1969 Camaro - brackets I have are also for a 1969 Camaro - and everything fit up nice.
It just seems like everything is a mess that I need to fix - even when ordering new parts that are supposed to fit.
But the car is looking a lot neater as I continue to try and get things straightened out. Hopefully I will get to drive the car before long as I got a license tag renewal in the mail a couple of weeks ago and still have not had a good ride.
Sounds like you're getting quite a lot of small, but annoying issues sorted out. Perfect weather now for cruising and enjoying early Fall weather. Car looks sharp in white. Go out and enjoy it.
jerry455
10-21-2020, 06:14 PM
Great to hear you are making progress on this car. I was lucky enough to be at the auction this sold at (BJ at Vegas I think?) The car looked so tough and sounded wicked when driving up to the block. Glad to see it in the hands of a true enthusiast instead of an endless stream of flippers!
Enjoy & post pics when you can.
Trying to get a threaded pipe plug out of the driver side cylinder head today so that I can put the temperature sending unit in.
What a pain !!!
COPO - the only way I can enjoy it right now is working on it. Still waiting on the rubber cushions for the radiator.
jerry455 - car does 'sound' wicked but its bite doesn't back up it bark. I think it is because the PerTronix II distributor needs 12 volts and this one is fed off of the factory wiring and is only getting about 9.5 volts (I think). I've put a different distributor in the engine now and will hopefully test it after the radiator and everything gets back in.
I never did get the pipe plug out of the cylinder head yesterday so I will work on that some more on another day, .... but here are a few pictures of the engine compartment
So I got the new radiator in .... not without a little adjustment .... seems the radiator is about 1/4" to wide, so I had to modify the rubber cushion so that everything could go together. Over-all not bad.
After that I started the engine but I had a couple of gas leaks. This carb is a Holley 83310 and came with the 'metering plate' in the secondary fuel bowl and I bought a Holley kit to convert it to a 'metering block' that you can change the jets in it. That's all well but I had to buy a different fuel line because the spacing is different on the fuel bowl inlets now with the metering block.
The new fuel line I bought is the problem. It was made wrong. Turned one way the lines were to narrow to fit the fuel bowl inlets and turned the other way they were to wide to fit the fuel bowl inlets. So I shortened and re-flared two ends so that the gas line was about the right spacing down from the carb and also fit to the fuel block. Guess I didn't do to good of a job - should have just sent the whole mess back.
I will have to get a new set of fuel lines and hope these fit. But why does everything need adjusting ??
If these don't fit.... they are going back
tunes
10-26-2020, 02:33 PM
I never did get the pipe plug out of the cylinder head yesterday so I will work on that some more on another day, .... but here are a few pictures of the engine compartment
Rick had the same problem and was able to remove it as shown in this post (#525). https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=152152&highlight=rick%27s+yenko&page=53
the427king
10-29-2020, 01:50 AM
If you need any pointers on that plug let me know. Have done it 3 times now ....have lots of tricks for it but it's never easy.
sixt9rsx33
11-03-2020, 12:05 PM
Tom, I took apart my 69 L78 Chevelle recently to to have it restored. I had body panel issues and the car needed to be painted.I stripped it to a shell, and have pictures if you need anything. My car is a L78, 4 speed, bench seat, no gauges, Garnet Red, Black interior. Your car has more options than mine for sure.
I'm thinking of having someone weld a short bolt onto the pipe plug in the cylinder head.
Build up the weld quite a bit to get lots of heat into the pipe plug.
But I don't know if I am better to drain the water down in the engine - maybe gets more heat into the pipe plug - or leave the water in the engine while the bolt is welded on.
Any thoughts or other ideas? This is not a restored car, nor am I restoring the car, just trying to get everything working and make it useable.
Thanks sixt9rsx33 I also saw some very nice pictures of a car I believe the427king was doing.
I do have a working oil pressure gauge now. Not without some doing since the car has headers on it.
Still got to find the orange wire (I think) that will make the 'tach' work. There is a piece of old orange wiring sticking out of the firewall. but I haven't located the wire on the new under dash wiring harness.
tunes
11-03-2020, 10:17 PM
Tom, The tach wire should be brown and comes out of the wiring harness close to the coil.
Thanks Robert .... I did look at it and you are correct.
So what does the orange wire that comes through the firewall go to - transmission?
Now I will need to find out why the tach isn't working 'if' it is connected.
My back is hurting now - so I will go ahead and try to get the pipe plug out of the cylinder head and hopefully my back will be better.
L72Chevelle
11-05-2020, 09:13 PM
Orange wire is trans kickdown.
Thanks L72Chevelle .... that makes sense
Maybe one of you have had experience with something like this. What would happen if a car with resistor wiring also had a coil with an internal resistor?
Still trying to figure out why car has no power.
I'm also looking at the cam as a possible problem too. I've set the valve lash a few times and the 'clicking' always comes back. I had blamed it on the crimp style adjusting nuts but last time I put on poly-locks.
Been busy on other projects so haven't been working on this as much lately
firstgenaddict
11-21-2020, 10:46 PM
If the coil doesn't need a resistor wire (because it is internally resisted) then the combination of voltage drops may bring it down to 3-4 volts-
Pull the positive wire off the coil, attach a multimeter visible inside the car, then click the switch into the RUN position and check the voltage - if there is a resistor wire I believe the voltage should be 7-8 volts.
Poly locks will come loose if the top of the stud is not flat and square, many times the studs must be machined in order to achieve such a state.
Are you cold lashing or hot lashing the valves?
Many of us prefer to cold lash them... if you are not doing it this way here are the procedures as laid out by JohnZ and Duke Williams. PLEASE refer to your cam card or check your documentation for the appropriate clearances.
Procedure is as follows:
Bring #1 to TDC on compression stroke - adjust 8E 2I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 4E 1I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 3E 8I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 6E 4I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 5E 3I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 7E 6I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 2E 5I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 1E 7I
Thanks firstgenaddict
I've tried a different know good coil and had about the same results as with the coil that was on the car.
I did cold lash the valves. But...since I bought the car with the engine in it, I don't have any cam specs. So I set the lash at .024 I and .026 E.
Let me say that I had a 427 years ago with a cam going bad. If I drove the car 5 or 6 miles the valve lifters were not clicking - they were clacking.
I am just having a little clicking with this engine/cam - so if it is going bad, it is just starting. Thought I might drain the oil and see if there is anything.
Since I have tried a different distributor and now a coil - I may try a different carburetor to see if I can find where the power is.
Thanks for all the help
To adjust the lifters I had used the method from an old camshaft installation guide -
Turn engine until exhaust valve starts to open (about 1/5 of the way) then set intake valve
Turn the engine until the intake valve has opened fully and then is about 1/3 of the way closed - set the exhaust valve
The stock balancer is not marked like an aftermarket performance one is
May have found where a lot of the power this engine should have has been hiding - will take the car out again soon - but may go back through the valves again first
PeteLeathersac
11-27-2020, 04:02 PM
'
Have you confirmed the Timing Chain is correctly mounted as a tooth out would run but be low on power?:hmmm:
Best of luck, lookin' good otherwise!
:beers:
~ Pete
.
Well, I did adjust the valves and then take the car out to see if it was any better ... and it was only a little better
But when I got back home (5 miles top) there was those clicking lifters again
Cam will just have to come out
realzed
12-01-2020, 04:58 PM
I thought I heard there was both a grooved or plain journal cam that could be mistakenly installed that could lead to problems in one of these engines (375 hp)..
Maybe I'm way off base here- but could it possibly be that yours has the incorrect type for the block you have and that could be your problem?
Well the block in the car is a 1969 according to the numbers on it .... so it shouldn't need a grooved rear cam journal
I think the cam and lifters are just gone - maybe never broke-in right
My 72 y/o back is bothering me so I might be a little slower now - for a while - getting to some of this.
But I am hoping to start getting the fluids out of the engine so I can start taking things apart before to long.
Well the cam is gone. i think that is what has been wrong with this car since it has been here. It wasn't the carb or distributor, etc. like I hoped.
Hopefully the cam will come out without having to pull the engine - has anyone here pulled the cam from a 69 Chevelle with a big block engine and know for sure? I tried to do some measuring and it looks close.
big gear head
12-14-2020, 07:34 PM
I'm no engine expert, but in my experience when a cam goes bad the engine needs to be disassembled and cleaned out. I helped my brother with his LS6 after it had a cam go down and we just pulled the cam and replaced it. About 30 minutes after installing the new cam it was down again. The oil passages had filled with metal from the first cam and it caused the new cam to go bad quickly. The next time we disassembled the engine and completely cleaned the block. It didn't have any more cam failures after that.
L_e_e
12-14-2020, 08:23 PM
I concur with the above, although I've done it in the past and had success only because I caught it real early while lashing the valves and noticed that I had gained lash on one valve and the lock nut hadn't loosened up. Inspection of the cam lobe upon removal and it was minor and the lifter was flat, so I rolled the dice and installed a new cam and lifters and didn't have any problems, also I opened up the oil filter and it was clean.
On others that have ran on a rounded lobe and concaved the lifter the engine was full of metal, and you will usually find most of it on the knurls of the piston skirts.
Nowadays I wouldn't chance it, pull it and go through the engine, and while the engines at the machine shop that will give you plenty of time to clean and detail the engine compartment which usually snowballs to other things if you're not careful....
Well, I was wrong. The cam and lifters are fine. After more disassembly and looking closer, with my glasses on, taking pic's with my cell phone I could enlarge, having others look and taking some pieces to the machinist to look at - everything is fine.
So I will re-set the valve adjustment using the method given on here, I took the time to mark the damper.
But then it will be back to the hunt for why the car has so little power.
I may need to try and see if there is still a lobe on the cam for the fuel pump - but there was/is no fine metal in the engine at all - so I doubt the fuel pump lobe is gone but will try to see.
BLACKLS5
12-18-2020, 02:42 PM
Maybe I missed it but where are you located?
BLACKLS5
12-18-2020, 08:45 PM
Tom, I thought if you were close I'd take a look. Knoxville is a bit of a poke for me.
Thanks, BLACKLS5 ..... I'm a little slow but I'll get it figured out.
I'm working now on getting the intake manifold back on the engine - but give me a few days. lol
I did get the engine back together and running. But the valve lash problem is still there. Maybe a little worse this time since I went from .026 to .028 on the exhaust valves. Don't know for sure.
So since I don't know for sure what cam is in the engine, I'm thinking I will try setting the lash tighter - like a 'tight-lash' cam.
Wish me luck
Well I got the valves all re-lashed, and I set them a little tighter this time..... I @ .020 and the Exh. @ .022
After I had set the valves I turned the engine through the 90* cycles a second time - rechecking my work as I went.
It may just be what someone on here said, that the set screws just weren't contacting the tops of the rocker studs correctly and needed to be tightened a few times until they did.
Anyway - for now the valve lash seems good - so I will try and find out where the power has gone
Well, after trying all the wrong things first in my search for where the L-78's power had gone .... a different carburetor fixed the problem.
Of course now I will need to get everything adjusted and tuned - but the power is there, fish-tailing up the road proved that.
Still more to do but I'm hanging in there..... barely at times ... lol
I have taken the engine out of the car. I never could get the valve train noise stopped. I did check the valve lash the other day, doing a go - no go. Lash was right where I put it as a 0.002 larger feeler gauge wouldn't go in any of them. But still the valve train noise.
Then a whole new noise started - I feel it was something deeper in the engine. What little I ran the engine, not over 10 mins., the next 2 days the engine made the noise. Then, on the third day, the new noise went away and I was left with the valve train noise.
So the engine is out and I will start trying to figure out what the issue/issues are.
The oil has been drained - and I didn't/don't see any metal at all in it
L72Chevelle
01-30-2021, 11:31 PM
Tom cut the oil filter open and have a look inside. Might find material stuck in the filter pleats.
I will L72Chevelle .... I am going to look in the bottom of the oil pan too when I get it off
SS427
02-01-2021, 12:19 AM
I just had one go down on me a couple weeks ago. 1st one in over 40 years.
SuperNovaSS
02-03-2021, 05:57 AM
Tom,
This may be a silly question but can you explain what the valve train noise sounds like? Solid lifter cams are known for being noisy. I’m sorry to hear there was another noise and you had to pull the engine. I’m sure you will get to the bottom of it.
Jason
Schonyenko2
02-11-2021, 04:13 AM
Rick, the Comp we put in my Chevelle project went bad at break in. Motor builder been doing it for 40+ years. He had another one go bad in a 350 right after that. Issue could be bad cores (cams made in China) or lifters with bad angles. I went with a Clay Smith (Made in USA) cam. Really like it.
the427king
02-14-2021, 05:21 AM
Glad to see the posts about this , the next step for me was putting the block in a cc machine and relocate the lifter bores/bush at a ridiculous cost. But the motor ran all its life w no problem Spring pressure good. Just had two motors in a row wipe cams outdone of the motors two times in a row !!!!!!!!. Second time went with lifters w holes in bottom. run of the mill 327s. has to be bad parts. Lifters were scalloped out like nothing the shop ever saw before . Most vendors wont sell lifters wo cams due to the shortage right now .Elgin cam and comp products lifters. Junk parts. Rollers from now on. You'd think it wouldn't be parts 3 times , but it seems like everyone else is having the same problem too.
Billohio
02-14-2021, 02:44 PM
My engine builder is about 70 years old and does mostly performance engines, drag cars, pulling tractors and stuff. He has pretty much quit using non roller cams. Had several Comp failures. Lately he is using howards cams and they have billet ones that are reasonable
Well after taking the engine apart I cannot find anything wrong but I do know what's in it now. Cast nodular iron crank turned 20 on the mains and 10 on the rods. Factory rods with up graded bolts (marked with an "R" on top). From the pads on the bottom of the rods, it looks like the engine was balanced. It has what looks to be Sealed Power cast piston that are 40 over with about a 0.200 dome. And a Comp cam L/78 solid lifter cam and lifters.
I cut the oil filter open and found nothing. Oil pan has some moly in the bottom, probably from the cam break in lube.
SuperNovaSS (Jason) ask what it sounded like ... well it sounded like a lifter that was a little out of adjustment, a ticking sound. The second sound that I heard (the one that went away) was more like a rod bearing (a knock).
But all I have found is where the header gaskets were leaking on several of the exhaust ports. I'm thinking that may have been the problem or problems.
Some of my friends that heard it think that can't be right but are starting to think it is because there is just nothing wrong with the engine.
I hate to think I pulled the engine for exhaust gaskets but I can't find anything else.
I have gotten the pipe plug out of the cylinder head where the temp. sending unit go while the engine is apart - so there that.
I guess the laughs on me but I couldn't run the engine not knowing after what I thought I heard (and others heard).
luzl78
02-22-2021, 08:51 PM
Use remflex gaskets.
big gear head
02-22-2021, 09:37 PM
Was this supposed to be a L78 engine?
big gear head - It was advertised as being just a big block engine.
Engine Pad I.D.'s it as a 1969 Camaro L/78 engine block. Should have come with an automatic trans, and is date code correct for this car build. It is a 4-bolt block and it does have the square port heads, with aluminum intake
But no, it was never said that it was an L/78 engine
big gear head
02-23-2021, 05:30 PM
OK. The cast crank and cast pistons are not L78 parts, so it made me wonder if it was supposed to be one. Watch your RPMs with those cast pistons.
Thanks .. big gear head. I knew those weren't L/78 parts but that brings up a question that has been running through my mind ..... just how many rpm's can those parts take. I'm not going to be making enough HP to worry about, but what about rpm's. Square port heads and L/78 cams like a little more rpm's than an oval port.
I may put a different engine back in the car - it's a standard bore 2-bolt block with a steel crank, forged L/78 pistons and square port heads -we'll see.
big gear head
02-24-2021, 05:57 PM
Most people consider 5500 RPMs the safe limit for cast pistons. Stroke, rod length, compression ratio and other things will have an effect on this.
Well in my case it is stock 3.76 stroke, stock rods at 6.135, and around 9.5 compression.
So we will have to see....
I haven't done anything with the engine yet. Still weighting my options. I do have a std. - std. steel factory crank + a set of rods with the 7/16 ARP bolts.
Also have another standard bore 2-bolt main 396 block. So I'm ..... thinking
big gear head
03-08-2021, 02:07 AM
Stick that crank and rods in your 4 bolt block with a good set of forged pistons and let it spin to 7000 RPMs. I used a 6223 crank and a set of polished and shot peened LS6 rods with ARP bolts and TRW pistons and shifted it at 7000 for several years. I've got better rods and lighter pistons in it now and going to 7300. Just be sure that the valve train is up to it. Dropped valves set off a huge bomb.
luzl78 - thanks for the tip, but I guess I don't know what remflex gaskets are.
big gear head - thanks, that is what I think I'm going to do, and get the whole thing balanced.
I'm also thinking about using the cast nodular iron crank along with the factory rods with upgraded bolts in the standard bore 2-bolt main 396 block. It already has factory forged 396/375 pistons. Will the crank take 6500 rpm's
big gear head
03-09-2021, 03:51 PM
I don't know about the crank. I don't know what the RPM limit usually is on a cast crank.
It doesn't look like a set of L-78 +40 pistons is going to be easy to come up with
May take a special order
For now I think I'm going with my 2-bolt engine with factory steel crank and factory L-78 pistons
Will decide on the other engine later
The engine is coming alone fine .. I will get the oil pump and oil pan back on tomorrow, and with some luck (and if my back stays with me), maybe the cylinder heads.
Hope to get it back in the car soon .... wish me luck
PeteLeathersac
03-31-2021, 12:25 AM
'
Keep rockin', all your hard work will pay off w/ the good times yet to come!
:beers:
~ Pete
.
I do have the oil pump, oil pan, and both heads back on the engine. I need to take the steering column out to replace the firewall seal that goes around the column. Right now I have a red rag that someone put there.....lol
After that I will try and get the engine in the car.
I have been working on the steering column and have it just about ready to go back in. Should have that done by early next week.
After that the engine
Steering column is back in and the 'Red Rag' is gone .... lol
Now to get an engine back in the car ... wish me luck
Well ... there is an engine back in the car - now I will need to get everything connected.
I'm going to put manifolds on and leave the headers off - so there will be some changes to make and also I need to straighten out some stuff that others had done to the car before.
2 or 3 weeks and I should have it running
Things are still coming along - I've got the wrong water temp sender so I need to order a different one and the front brace for the starter motor is also missing.
All-n-all, not doing to bad.
Re-assembly is going good. But I'm thinking I need to 're-clock' the alternator. Does anyone have a picture or can you tell/explain to me where the wiring connections on the backside of the alternator need to be when assembled?
Thanks
I found a good picture from a beautifully restored 1969 - and it shows the screw on power terminal at 12 o'clock and the 2-wire terminal at 3 o'clock.
That looks like it should be right
After lunch today I was going to start the engine and let the new cam and lifters break-in, but the engine didn't want to start. After trying several things I thought/hoped would help but didn't, I ran the trouble shooting guide for the XR-i ignition.
Once I had it isolated to the secondary system I swapped the rotor but that didn't help so I replaced the cap.
When I had pulled the spark plug wires out of the distributor cap I knew I had found the problem because the coil and #3 terminals were black - not nice clean brass like the other terminals.
Cap and rotor are not 6 months old - they are Accel brand products. Plug wires are also new. This is just a problem I should not have had.
Anyway I did get the engine to start - so I will get the cam broke-in in the next few days.
Got the cam and lifters broke-in yesterday ... everything went well, engine started right up and I kept it at a high idle for 20 minutes.
I did use Mr. Gasket shim steel head gaskets so I'm guessing I will need to go back and re-torque the heads after a couple more heat and cool cycles - but I will check with Mr. Gasket techs - then I will re-run the valve lash.
I'm going to have to get an appointment at the muffler shop to get the new pipes from the cast iron exhaust manifolds connected to the pipes that had gone to the headers that were on the car.
I might make a car out of this thing yet ... lol
Still making progress - I will try to get an appointment lined-up with the muffler shop this week.
I did get the new driver side kick panel in so I will try to work on the passenger side this week also.
SuperNovaSS
05-24-2021, 01:34 AM
I’m excited about this build and appreciate the updates. Keep up the good work.
Jason
Did a lot of cleaning in the 'pocket' behind the passenger side kick panel (like I did on the drivers side) - and took the glove box out so that I could get the wires routed better/correctly.
Also the glove box only had 1 screw holding it in so I tried to get everything back together better and with all 4 screws. Didn't make it new, but it sure looks and works better - useable now.... lol
If nothing goes wrong I hope to get the new kick panel in tomorrow.
Here is a couple of pictures of the engine that is in the car now
I've got both new kick panels in now. Also I take the car to the muffler shop next Monday. I've also gone by and talked to the guy at the transmission shop and will be taking the car there sometime after the mufflers shop is finished. Trans works good but has a couple of leaks - 1 around the vacuum modulator and 1 around the shaft for the shifter. And he said something about replacing the one at the governor cover also. Oh, and I ask him about connecting the wire from the 'kick-down' switch.
Chevelle SS 396 L78
06-03-2021, 03:40 PM
Question.....was putting stiffer/taller rear springs in these cars something racers did....to maybe clear larger, wider, slicks?
Thanks
Absolutely! That was the “look”. My L78 ‘67 always had stock springs, but to mount my slicks & similar beefy tires & wheels (for the street, as I never raced it at the track) I used those coil spring inserts to separate the coils & lift the car a bit....it actually worked!!! lol! Ride quality wasn’t harmed much at all, and I had plenty of clearance for my M/T Super Scavenger Headers underneath!
Nice ride you have there...enjoy it and make it your own!
Thanks Chevelle SS 396 L78 .... I did remove those springs as the rear of the car sit up to high.
Missed going to the muffler shop last week because of a very heavy rain - so now I have an appointment for this coming week
I got the exhaust fixed at the muffler shop the other day so the car is much quieter now, but still has a pretty good rumble.
Next the transmission shop to get the leaks fixed. Trans did shift fine on my trip to the muffler shop.
I've got a sit-back as the new kick panels leak. Looks like I didn't get something right.
I'll have to try it again or get someone else to try. And I hate working on these things
The transmission shop I was going to have fix the leaks on my transmission never called, so me and a friend with a car lift worked on it.
After getting back home there was no leak for 5 or more hours. But after sitting for more than 12 hours, I did still have a leak. I think the converter must have drained down and the pan gasket is leaking.
So I've got a new gasket - and we will try again. If anyone has any great ideas on how best to seal a pan gasket on the trans - please let me know. Thanks
scuncio
07-11-2021, 12:01 AM
I always use Permatex #2 between the pan rail and gasket, and nothing between the gasket and trans case. Has always worked well for me.
big gear head
07-11-2021, 01:18 AM
Be sure that it isn't leaking from the dip stick tube. Your pan gasket may be fine, but the O ring on the tube may be the problem.
Thanks for the helpful replies. I have been checking to see if there are any leaks/drips or signs of any red fluid coming from anything above the pan gasket and transmission body parting line.
I've ordered an RTV sealant Permatex makes just for auto-trans. Hopefully I'll get this fixed soon
Looking again this afternoon I don't see anything on the shift linkage, nothing on the vacuum modulator or running down from the dipstick tube, and nothing running down the front of the trans case behind the torque converter.
So I will try the RTV between the pan and the gasket
scuncio
07-12-2021, 09:28 PM
Good luck! Also check that the flange is flat and not rippled from having been overtightened.
I found the source of my trans leak and got it fixed. There was NO seal on the shift lever shaft. Grime, dirt, gunk, grit, but no seal - not even a piece of old seal - nothing.
So it now has a nice new seal.
How about the SCR in Bowling Green ... wasn't that fun. I know I enjoyed it.
big gear head
07-26-2021, 01:34 AM
I wish we had pictures and list of names so I would know people from here that attend. I'm sure that I ran into you at SCR sometime, but I have no idea.
big gear head .... I thought the same thing while I was at the track on Friday.
Next I have to find where my water leak is. I thought it was at the kick panels and replaced them, but I'm still getting water.
It's going to take some more investigation
Sorry I've been working on a couple of other projects and haven't been working on this one. I do still have a transmission leak - and on looking, and feeling, I see it is coming from the dipstick tube. I've got a new o-ring seal and hope to get that fixed before long. I have also did some more looking about my water leak - and am now starting to believe it is not coming from the kick panels. Hopefully I will know about that in a few days.
Wish me luck ... haha ... I sure need it at times
Looks like the water leaks are around the door and window seals .... so I'll need to get that fixed next, and I've still got to get the new o-ring on the trans dipstick tube.
So I got the door and roof rail weatherstrip along with the vertical strips for the quarter windows and the outer window felts
I always get into this place where I'm trying to not 'over' repair/fix the car - but leave it more as a just a car that looks like one that has be maintained .... but in this case I can't have water getting in the car and wetting the carpet/floorboard. So maybe a lot of new rubber but didn't know how else to handle it.
But first the doctor will be putting more shots in my back tomorrow - lets hope that works and I can get back to work on this car soon.
Trying to 'recruit' a fellow now to help me with some of this - wish me luck
I got the new o-ring on the transmission dipstick tube today. Wasn't easy - in fact I had a hard time getting the holes lined back up so that the dipstick tube was bolted in place with the bell-housing - but finally got there. Hopefully now no more trans leaks.
So the weather-stripping is next
scuncio
09-06-2021, 11:23 PM
Great progress! Let us know if that solves the leak.
It seems I have the dipstick tube leak fixed .... but the shaft for the trans shift lever is still leaking or leaking again. I put a new seal on it, but it is what it is. So I cleaned around it good and blew everything off - and then I put some sealant (made for use with auto trans fluid) around it. We'll let it set for a day and check it again.
But I've got to get to the weatherstrip.
Get more shots in my back Friday - I hope to be all the better after that.
The gear selector shaft isn't leaking - but then I haven't driven the car either. My friend who has built a lot of transmissions said the gear selector shaft seal on a Turbo-400 sets deeper in the recess in the case and that I have two seals. The old original seal that is leaking and the new seal. So if the gear selector shaft leaks anymore I guess I will take the pan off and take the shaft out and get everything right. What a mess
Just as a report on progress - there hasn't been much. I have had other small projects around the house, the doctors have my back doing much better and I don't want to get it aggravated again, and a couple of months ago I lost my best friend - the one that I could talk to about cars and he would come help me, and joking with each other kept us laughing and enjoying what we were doing.
So I'm still looking for someone who I can get to fix a lot of the little things still going on with the car .... like - tach doesn't work, fuel gauge doesn't work, no taillights, no turn signals, power wire from tranny kick-down switch needs to go to something, etc. Things like that , that I don't know a lot about really try my patience anymore.
Friend down the street who I've paid for work plenty of times before - he's a retired mechanic - is older now too and his wife's mother is taking more of their time, etc. But I'm going to check on him and see if he's doing anything.
Last resort I'll take the car to a local restoration shop and pony up the bucks - if my back ain't hurting when the car is done - I guess that's a win.
Wish me luck ....
I did get to talk the the retired mechanic yesterday. It wasn't his wife's mother who was sick but her sister - she has now passed, but had a handicapped daughter, so they are now trying to make arrangements for her to be taken care of.
But, on the good side I might be able to get some much needed help soon
Sorry I haven't been giving an up-date on this project, but really I haven't made any progress. I'm still waiting on the old mechanic to call me to bring the car down to get all the wiring issues straightened out. I'm very hopeful that he will call me soon after the first of the year. My project is next in line at his garage.
Keep wishing me luck - I haven't given up - and will take the car to a different shop if I have to.
Good News ... the retired mechanic who lives down the street called me yesterday and said bring the car on down. I stayed and helped him and he is already finding several things I would have never found --- like the new front parking light assemblies had the wiring installed in them backwards .... making the bright side of the 1157 bulb burn when the parking lights were turned on, and the flasher side of the bulb burn dim or normal when the turn signal was used, so you could even see the bulb was flashing -- hope that makes sense.
Lots more to do but he's really good
Too Many Projects
07-13-2022, 01:33 AM
Glad to see you are still plugging away on the old girl. Are you going to be at SCR again ? I had the '38 coupe there last year. Hoping to get the Chevelle together enough to bring down this time.
Yes, I plan to be there but I don't think the Chevelle will make it this year - I'll try and bring something else.
How it started and how it's going .....
Hopefully after this all the gauges and everything else will work ... as I am having a new gauge cluster put in as most of the old gauges didn't work
Too Many Projects
07-18-2022, 12:48 AM
Yep, you got yourself a spaghetti mess going there...:laugh:
I quick question. This car has a rear window defogger on it. Did that come from the factory or was that installed at the dealership out of the factory Accessories Catalog?
Thanks for any help.
Both,the rear defogger was an extra cost factory installed option,as well as you could ask the dealer to install,once it was delivered.
Thanks Mr70 .... I just don't know that I'm going to leave it on this car.
Don't know why I didn't think of it before - I just checked the partial bill sheet I have and the rear window defogger came on the car from the factory
That must have had something to do with it being a New Jersey car.
The retired mechanic who is working on my car is getting lots done. He has checked resistance on tons of wires and really getting things straighten out now.
He has put in a new fuel tank sending unit, a battery (old one had a crack around the negative terminal on top), radio, and speaker. In the process he has taken out a few 'extra' wires from the old radio and speaker system.
I also got to buy a new transmission kick-down switch which should go in before long.
The power brake booster - which I paid a shop to install didn't have all the nuts holding it to the firewall - that's now taken care of.
Bad part - I've spent several dollars - but it'll be nice ..... new dash pad, dash panel, and new instrument cluster, antenna, etc.
Still stuff to get to but it's coming along
Xplantdad
07-29-2022, 03:03 AM
Awesome!! :biggthumpup:
Things are coming along - the dash panel and gauges are about ready to go back in. Everything checks out and looks to be in good working order now.
I'm really thankful to have had this retired mechanic's help.
We are going to have to repair the transmission kick-down switch that goes by the gas pedal - mine works sometimes and some times it needs a wiggle - and I cannot find a repo. NOS are ridiculous. But I think we'll be alright.
Xplantdad
08-07-2022, 10:34 PM
Then, get out and enjoy it :) :biggthumpup::biggthumpup:
I intend to ..... but it will need to go to the alignment shop
I should get to bring the Chevelle back home today. There are going to be a few things I will have to do now. One of the Back-Uo light sockets needs to be replace, it's working but there is some corrosion on it - and even thou it has been brushed clean and is working now, I think the corrosion will come back.
I need to re-tape the wires coming from the front parking lights where he had to take things apart to assemble the lights correctly.
Transmission pan is leaking and I must get that taken care of also.
Horn button doesn't work and I think I can get the horn cap/button spaced out a little so that it does work .... and one of the horns doesn't work, so I will be getting another one.
But over-all the car is much better and will be in a condition now that it can be driven some
I forgot to mention that the brake 'stand-off' valve is leaking. I ordered one and have it now.
Also the transmission gear shift lever is not the right one. I think the transmission came from about a 1970 Impala - which I guess was column shift - and the ratio is not right for the floor shifter. I ordered and have received it also.
I've also ordered and received a new transmission pan and gasket to fix the leaky trans pan.
The work goes on
Getting some more work done on the Chevelle this week and I will post more soon.
But does anyone know if the "stock' torque converter that came in a 375 hp car let the engine idle in gear at 750 rpm's. That's what the Tune-Up specs call for. Trouble is the converter in my car pulls the engine down to about 500 rpm's in gear.
Is there a known good stock replacement torque converter for these cars? Thanks
Donnie
10-19-2022, 07:24 PM
post a pic of the converter both sides.
Thanks Donnie. Converter is in the car now - so when I get the car back home from the mechanic's house, who is doing the work for me, I'll see what pictures I can come up with
I believe from what I remember the trans is from a 1970 or 71 Impala (from the trans code on the side of the case). Also the shifter lever is for a column shifter - we are swapping that out this week for one for a floor shifter.
Too Many Projects
10-20-2022, 12:44 PM
If the converter is still from the Impala, it's not going to work with the L78 cam, as you are aware of. You'll need a converter to match the application, with a higher "stall" speed, either a rebuilt original or an aftermarket tuned to the cam.
Thanks Mitch. Yes you're right. I need a converter that will let the engine idle higher in gear - but I don't want a real high stall converter either. I enjoy the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags and would need a converter that wouldn't blow-off F-70-14 tires.
But if I understand correctly - the stock converter did let the engine idle at about 750 rpm's and had a 2,200? rpm stall
But if I understand correctly - the stock converter did let the engine idle at about 750 rpm's and had a 2,200? rpm stall
Yes,as that's what my L-78 TH-400 transmission lets it idle at.
WILMASBOYL78
10-20-2022, 10:43 PM
If the converter is still from the Impala, it's not going to work with the L78 cam, as you are aware of. You'll need a converter to match the application, with a higher "stall" speed, either a rebuilt original or an aftermarket tuned to the cam.
The idle aspect is only part of the transmission issue...the hi-perf trannys used behind the L78 were special built units. They had stronger internals, the 6 lug high stall converter, a hi shift point governor and other unique features. There was an old thread about this, not sure if the info is still accessible.
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112183&highlight=trans
Thanks for the info on the transmission. Right now the trans seems fine, I'll know more soon as the car is getting close to being drivable
And the new Disc Brake Hold Off Valve leaks ..... so I've ordered another one
The transmission in my car has a "CR" code with a black tag - no picture, but the torque converter only has 3 bolts.
WILMASBOYL78
10-22-2022, 01:10 AM
And the new Disc Brake Hold Off Valve leaks ..... so I've ordered another one
The transmission in my car has a "CR" code with a black tag - no picture, but the torque converter only has 3 bolts.
For 70-71 the 'R code' TH-400 would be a 454 application from a Chevelle...
The 3 lug converter indicates a low-horse option...
That's what I was thinking - but no way to know IF the trans has been up-graded without taking it apart, and I don't plan to just do that with the trans working good.
But the converter has to be changed
Making progress but have had 2 disc brake hold off valves that leaked out the back. Third one is on the way.
WILMASBOYL78
11-02-2022, 02:38 PM
That's what I was thinking - but no way to know IF the trans has been up-graded without taking it apart, and I don't plan to just do that with the trans working good.
But the converter has to be changed
You can drop the pan with the tranny in the car...have your shop check the valve body to see if a shift kit has been added. Converter can be swapped without completely removing the transmission. [check the flexplate and make sure it is in good condition]
You can also upgrade the governor without a tear down. A remote cooler and deep sump pan are also simple upgrades that will help extend tranny life.
ATI is a good source for th-400 parts and advice.
www.atiracing.com
Mr.Nickey Nova
11-02-2022, 03:04 PM
Making progress but have had 2 disc brake hold off valves that leaked out the back. Third one is on the way.
That seems to be the problem with some repop hold off valves. Had the same issue with one I bought. Had a 70 NOS style on my 69 Camaro, wanted the correct 69 style, installed and started to bleed the brakes. Of course, it leaked and didn't stop, so I reinstalled the 70 style back on with no issues. Nothing like the original parts.
Third disc brake hold off valve is working. Lets hope it continues to work.
Thanks for all the tips - it helps
I've noticed that in the NEW gauge cluster - the tach red line does not match the red line in the original gauge cluster
Were some of these red lines different on the original clusters - early vs late - or is this just something with the re-pops
SuperNovaSS
11-17-2022, 02:30 AM
Why did you replace the original gauge cluster with a repro?
Jason
Because the fellow helping me stays right busy - I could get a repro right fast and him get it installed - instead of waiting for mine to be shipped, repaired, and returned.
I can still get the original repaired now with more time.
Not a bad strategy to get the car drivable and enjoy it while waiting for items having a very long lead time. As long as $'s are there, it makes a lot of sense. Clock ticking for us older guys. :-)
That ticking clock makes me wish at times that I had just bought a nice (not over done) car - but there is also the satisfaction of getting this old car usable - so it can be enjoyed.
But I do have a couple more cars that I am already getting to enjoy - I'm blessed
BlackL78M22Nova
11-25-2022, 02:05 AM
Nice job Tom! Love what you are doing!
I've swapped the rear springs out again. Car came with some super stiff & tall rear springs when I got it - someone on here told me racers back in the day used to put them in. I had put in some springs from an 1987 Buick GN I had had several years ago - but felt that the car was still to high in the rear. So I put in a set of rear springs from a 1970 Chevelle SS that came from the factory with the rear sway bar.
Car sits a lot better now to me.
I have an appointment with the alignment shop next Tuesday. I'm hoping there is no drama there .... lol
I didn't make it to the alignment shop as planned - as the mechanic down the street was ready to put a new torque converter in the car.
Should know soon just how much a new "modified stall" torque converter helps.
The torque converter helped much more than I thought. Where before the car idled good in "Park" - it gasped like it wanted to die in gear and wanted to lurch when trying to ease on the gas. Car now idles good in gear and eases around nicely at part throttle.
Very good change
Merry Christmas to everyone who is following along on this car project with me.
Thanks for all the help you have been.
I polished the front bumper the other day just to clean it up a little and make it look better.
That got me looking at the headlight trim pieces which had a little paint on the top edges. So I took the trim pieces off to get the paint off and noticed that they were all installed in the wrong positions - and the screws were all just a mix-match of whatever someone could find.
So I ordered a fastener kit to put all the headlight trim back on with matching screws and such. Which I did - but the kit had to many screws and some nylon/plastic squared off pieces in it. I couldn't find a place for the plastic pieces and I just stayed with the u-shaped clips that the trim screws went into.
I guess if someone worked on enough of these cars they would know just what went where - or were different fasteners used on Chevelles depending on which assembly plant they were made at?
And of course there were no instructions saying where the nylon/plastic pieces went.
Anyway the car is coming along - it is in much better shape and usable now.
Too Many Projects
12-30-2022, 01:27 PM
I polished the front bumper the other day just to clean it up a little and make it look better.
That got me looking at the headlight trim pieces which had a little paint on the top edges. So I took the trim pieces off to get the paint off and noticed that they were all installed in the wrong positions - and the screws were all just a mix-match of whatever someone could find.
So I ordered a fastener kit to put all the headlight trim back on with matching screws and such. Which I did - but the kit had to many screws and some nylon/plastic squared off pieces in it. I couldn't find a place for the plastic pieces and I just stayed with the u-shaped clips that the trim screws went into.
I guess if someone worked on enough of these cars they would know just what went where - or were different fasteners used on Chevelles depending on which assembly plant they were made at?
And of course there were no instructions saying where the nylon/plastic pieces went.
Anyway the car is coming along - it is in much better shape and usable now.
Post a pic of what you have and there will be people who can advise you on their usage/locations. The square, plastic "nuts" may be for the adjusting screws for aiming or grille mounting screws, depending on size.
This is a picture of the nylon/plastic parts that came in the headlight trim fastener kit
To Many Projects thought they might be for the headlight adjusting screws to go into (without seeing a picture)
Does anybody know if that is right?
Too Many Projects
01-06-2023, 09:56 PM
That's what they look like to me.
They are very similar to license plate nuts too, but I wouldn't think they would be included in a headlight/grille kit...:laugh:
I hadn't thought of the license plate nuts .... but these are much to small for those
Thanks
BLACKLS5
01-07-2023, 12:35 PM
I can't speak for a '69 but on a '70 those would snap in to the radiator support and the screws that hold the head lamp bezels on would screw into them. Probably 2 for each of the 4 head lamp bezels.
I checked the package the parts came in to see if maybe it fit several years - but it was listed as only for 1969
So I will guess that those are for the headlight adjuster screws.
Thanks for the help
I've been working on putting new weatherstripping around the side windows and the doors
Job is going pretty good but the plastic push pins that hold the front of the roof-rail weatherstripping in place were much larger and wouldn't push into the body (metal), so I just re-used the originals that were still good
This job has gone better than I thought it would
Bill Pritchard
01-26-2023, 12:20 AM
Always a pleasant surprise when something goes better than expected!
Too Many Projects
01-26-2023, 10:28 PM
Always a pleasant surprise when something goes better than expected!
And not a very often event either...:biggthumpup:
Guess I finally got to the hard part of replacing some of this weatherstripping
The outer window seals/wipers are a bear.
That little lip that needs to stay on top of the metal door edge is hard to get to stay in place while I'm trying to get everything lined up and screws started.
I've got one door done so I'll get the other one - somehow
Still working on the car & trying to get it repaired (not restored) and in good running condition. I didn't see any rust holes in the floorboards, while under the car cleaning, sealing, and painting any bare metal .... but I wanted to check the floorboards inside too.
There was some light surface rust - but no holes. Everything is solid, even when using a screw drive to poke and scrape.
The carpet will have to be replaced, and the console is broken in so many places, it will probably get tossed too.
The red/rust color you see in the picture is a glue that someone used I think when they put in the carpeting I took out of the car.
I always enjoy reading about your updates. These cars are certainly a labor of love and are never really finished and always requiring ongoing care.
I ordered a 1/4 driver side front floor board section - going to go ahead and repair the floor where it was cut out for a manual transmission.
A friend of mine will be coming by the evening to start the repair. Then I'll replace the shifter cable with one that has the floor sealing gasket on it.
You may be able to see where a piece of metal had been pop riveted into place in the above photo.
My friend got the floor pan cut out where someone had put a hole for a 4-speed years ago, smoothed it all up nice and cut and welded in the new piece.
Looks real good - and will be a lot better than the way it was.
New carpet for the car was shipped today too
Car is coming along well and I am getting all the interior pieces back in now. I'm not replacing everything, but I am replacing what has to be replaced - and cleaning and refinishing all the rest.
Hopefully car will be ready to drive and race by mid April.
Still making progress - slow at times but it is coming together. I am having new seat cover installed on the front bucket seats as they were in really bad shape
Too Many Projects
03-29-2023, 11:43 AM
My favorite interior color for '69-'70.
Bill Pritchard
03-29-2023, 01:47 PM
My favorite interior color for '69-'70.
Same here. Looking good, Tom.
olredalert
03-29-2023, 02:18 PM
----I don't think I realized that your 69 is white on white. One of my favorite color combos! Black side stripes would really liven it up, but I'd understand not having them if they weren't on the car originally.....Bill S
Thanks to everybody commenting on my car repair. To Bill S - the car is white now but was originally Phantom Green with Parchment interior.
olredalert
03-30-2023, 09:51 PM
Thanks to everybody commenting on my car repair. To Bill S - the car is white now but was originally Phantom Green with Parchment interior.
----In that case, add the black stripes. You won't be sorry!....LOL!....Bill S
Too Many Projects
03-31-2023, 01:08 AM
I keep thinking your sound deadener is upside down. I think those black strips are intended to be on the metal and soften when warm and stick down to reduce vibration. Probably wrong, but it's worth looking into.
The paper work said to put the smooth side down. But it's not like there is a "smooth" side. The white stripes are raised a little - and the other side has small, shallow dimples ... lol - but I'll check. Thanks.
I do have the whole interior back in the car now and things are still coming along. Car still needs to go to the alignment shop - lets hope they don't find much wrong
Here's a picture with the interior back in
Looks good,but that car deserves real molded headrests,not cheesey covers that stand out a mile away.
X2!!!! Everything looks fantastic, tight, and oem....something that is extremely rare to see. It's near impossible to find parchment headrests that need nothing, so the next best thing is find another color and dye them. Done this before with headrests, arm rests, and pads. '69 only color, and '69 headrests are different than the later versions, so very tough to source.
Maybe I can find a couple of good used white headrest and dye them. They do have them new in black only.
Car is still coming along. I took it to the alignment shop hoping things wouldn't be to bad and they weren't. But, after two fellows looked the car over throughly - I ask them to - I do need the left upper ball joint. So that is next on my list to do. And they said there is a slight bit of play in the steering box - but that I would probably never notice it. Car did get a bath - and is looking much better - I even waxed the car after this picture was taken. On another note - transmission up shifts at very low rpm's. With mu foot in it, it up shifts at 3,800 to 4,000 rpm's. I'm not sure about that. Do I need a new governor - need to modify my governor - or is something else the problem?
olredalert
04-27-2023, 02:16 PM
----That is a good looking 69! someone on the sight will be able to help you, but you could also ask a good local trans shop about the shift point.....Bill S
big gear head
04-27-2023, 02:42 PM
Change springs and weights in the governor. You can buy a kit with springs and weights to adjust it. I had the TH400 in my brother's '70 Z28 shifting at 7000 RPMs at WOT. He made me change it to 6500. It was a lot more fun the way I had it.
I got the new Moog ball joint put in today - so it will be off to the alignment shop as soon as I can now.
Too Many Projects
05-14-2023, 11:19 AM
Good to hear. You have it cleaned up and looking REALLY nice now and you can enjoy driving it once it is aligned.
I did get the car aligned and was starting to drive it a little. But now the transmission has to be rebuilt. It had been working great, but the other day when I put it into gear, it took 10 or 12 seconds for it to engage. So the transmission will come out and be rebuilt. Always something with this car .... lol
Xplantdad
06-08-2023, 07:21 PM
Sorry to hear:tongue:
Too Many Projects
06-08-2023, 10:42 PM
Sounds like it's low on fluid. If it was working good and this is a sudden change, check the fluid. The modulators on them are known to rupture the diaphragm and suck the fluid into the intake and burn it, so there won't be an obvious leak.
Yeah - I had hoped that would be the problem, but the transmission was full. Anyway, the trans is out, it has been rebuilt - now to get it back in. That should be soon - but first I'm going to fix a driveshaft safety loop. I have been having a little problem getting the right clip that holds the speedometer drive gear in place on the output shaft. Shop kept giving me the wrong part - but I believe we've got it worked out now and I can get the right clip in the morning. I thought while everything was apart I would get it fixed so the speedometer would read correctly.
SuperNovaSS
06-14-2023, 07:56 PM
Yeah - I had hoped that would be the problem, but the transmission was full. Anyway, the trans is out, it has been rebuilt - now to get it back in. That should be soon - but first I'm going to fix a driveshaft safety loop. I have been having a little problem getting the right clip that holds the speedometer drive gear in place on the output shaft. Shop kept giving me the wrong part - but I believe we've got it worked out now and I can get the right clip in the morning. I thought while everything was apart I would get it fixed so the speedometer would read correctly.
Sounds like you will have a fresh trans now. Out of curiosity, did you check the fluid level with the engine running or turned off?
Jason
Running - with the engine and trans warm.
So I did get the right clip to hold the new plastic speedometer drive gear in place - so that all worked out. Next I installed a kit from B&M to recalibrate the governor. I wanted a higher RPM upshift. And I used a kit from TransGO to reprogram the valve body for a quicker + firmer shift. But the trans is still sitting in the floor - I've got to get to it.
Too Many Projects
06-17-2023, 05:56 PM
Hey, you made progress, more than some do. You'll get it in...:headbang:
Well the transmission is back in. Don't know why but I had to re-adjust the shifter cable. Trans work good so I'll try and get out drive it some and enjoy it for a while. That will give me a chance to tune on the engine and try to get the best performance. Now on the getting the gears changed it the rear end.
Sorry I didn't get to bring my Chevelle to the SCR. I didn't have the new rear gears in, but then I wasn't feeling the best and didn't feel like I could load the car in the trailer and all anyway. Maybe next year - I hope.
The 3.73 gears are sit-up in the rear end now. My neighbor finally got to it for me. Now to pull the 3.08 rear end out and put the 3.73 in. Should have it all done in a few days. I know I'm slow at times - but I keep moving in the right direction.
Too Many Projects
08-24-2023, 09:58 PM
The 3.73 gears are sit-up in the rear end now. My neighbor finally got to it for me. Now to pull the 3.08 rear end out and put the 3.73 in. Should have it all done in a few days. I know I'm slow at times - but I keep moving in the right direction.
Are all the bushings good in the rear suspension ? May as well address those, while it's out.
Thanks "Too Many Projects' .... Yes, all the control arm bushing have recently be replaced (Moog) - and we put two new bushing the housing now going in. Hopefully by Wednesday it will all be installed. I'm really hoping I can take the car to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Races in Michigan in about 2 weeks - wish me luck
I've been working on getting the transmission governor re-calibrated so that the trans will shift where I want it to. Lots of fun playing with 6 weights and 6 springs - there's a million combinations. Looks like in the end it will be some combination of getting the governor calibrated and me making the 2-3 shift. But I'm much happier with the trans now than when it just had the stock shift points.
Well the 3.73 rear end is in the car - and the fluid leak associated the rear pinion seal has been fixed. Seems they sell you a seal for a 12 bolt truck rear end now instead of one for a car - Oh well, it's fixed.
I will load the car today or tomorrow for the trip to the Pure Stock Muscle Car races. Don't know what the car will do but I'm sure I'll have a good time.
I'll let everyone know what the car runs when I get back.
Hope to see you there !!!!
big gear head
09-10-2023, 08:28 PM
Almost all of the pinion seals that you get now are for the 12 bolt truck rear end. Some of them are deeper than others. I've had to leave some of them sticking out about 1/8 inch on car housings because the rubber seal makes contact with the outer pinion bearing. I believe Ratech sells the correct car seal, but I haven't used it.
Yes - we did all of that. Even tried a different used pinion yoke the second time. Looks like I will have to get a new pinion yoke, and another new seal.
Looking on Ratech's site - they list the same seal for both the car and the truck. They don't list a different seal for the 12 bolt car. I may call them, or email them, and ask about it.
RPO LS7
09-11-2023, 09:58 PM
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-6109
big gear head
09-11-2023, 10:49 PM
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-6109
That's still the truck seal.
RPO LS7
09-12-2023, 12:14 AM
Are you sure, Fred? I used that one and it fit like the original.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-6109/reviews
big gear head
09-12-2023, 12:01 PM
Yes I'm sure. The original car seal did not have the flange on it. It was more of a cup shape, similar to the axle seals.
RPO LS7
09-12-2023, 12:59 PM
Thanks, Fred. As for the correct appearance, you are correct.
But, it is not the truck seal. It is a replacement part that works as intended.
big gear head
09-12-2023, 05:20 PM
The truck seal does work in the car housing. It puts the rubber lip in a different location deeper in the housing. As long as it's not too deep it will work with no problems. Some of them are made too deep and will cause problems. You just have to be sure that you check it when you install it and be sure that the rubber is not making contact with the bearing.
RPO LS7
09-12-2023, 05:39 PM
Agreed, Fred. I post this photo solely for future reference.
69PostSSChevelle
09-19-2023, 12:01 AM
Tom,
How did you make out at PSMCDR?
I've ordered a new pinion yoke, the Ratech seal mentioned above, and a new pinion nut. Hopefully this will solve this issue.
I did tape a paper shop towel to the bottom of the rear end and take the car to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Race. Changed the shop towel out once while I was there, but it wasn't leaking very much. Someone spoke to me from this list, but I was in a hurry, seems like I was always in hurry while I was there, and I didn't get his name - I would like to thank him for taking the time speak to me.
The car did well for what it is - and it's first time at the track. I got a best of 13.90 and 99 mph. I won about half of the races i had - but I lost my shootout. Over all I had a lot of fun and learned a lot.
Now after I get the pinion seal leak solved - I got to do something to stop the wheel hop. The wheel hop really affected me trying to do a burnout, and how I could leave the starting line. So, more to do yet.
big gear head
09-20-2023, 07:23 PM
Are you using thread sealer or RTV in the splines in the yoke when you install it? If you aren't then you probably have a leak coming through the splines. You always have to seal the splines, but do not put the sealer on the pinion. Always put it in the yoke. If you put it on the pinion then you will push the sealer into the outer bearing when you install the yoke.
Thanks Freddie - yes the mechanic doing the work for me has been putting thread sealer on the splines. I feel the problem is just that the yokes are worn where the seal rides. Also, in looking to see just where the fluid is coming from, the area around the pinion nut is dry. The fluid is leaking off the bottom of the dust cover on the yoke.
olredalert
09-20-2023, 11:03 PM
I've ordered a new pinion yoke, the Ratech seal mentioned above, and a new pinion nut. Hopefully this will solve this issue.
I did tape a paper shop towel to the bottom of the rear end and take the car to the Pure Stock Muscle Car Race. Changed the shop towel out once while I was there, but it wasn't leaking very much. Someone spoke to me from this list, but I was in a hurry, seems like I was always in hurry while I was there, and I didn't get his name - I would like to thank him for taking the time speak to me.
The car did well for what it is - and it's first time at the track. I got a best of 13.90 and 99 mph. I won about half of the races i had - but I lost my shootout. Over all I had a lot of fun and learned a lot.
Now after I get the pinion seal leak solved - I got to do something to stop the wheel hop. The wheel hop really affected me trying to do a burnout, and how I could leave the starting line. So, more to do yet.
----Hop stop bars will kill the hop. They will change the instant center. You won't even know they are there most of the time, but no more hop. Research it so you are comfortable with the idea!....Bill S
dykstra
09-21-2023, 10:46 AM
13.90’s is great considering it was your first time out with the car and it isn’t sorted!
Ryan1969Chevelle
09-21-2023, 10:52 AM
Does your car have red lines and small hub caps?
If so we shook hands and talked for a couple minutes at your car. I thought your car might have been one that Dan Vasic restored as the theme was so similar and they both ended up with dark blue license plates BC and Connecticut?
Ryan W31
Thanks Ryan, yes that was/is my car and I do remember talking to you. Thanks for spending a minute or two to speak with me - I appreciate more than people know.
Bill S. (Old Red Alert) - I have been looking at the Stop-Hop bars. Some also call them traction bars. Some say that they work but make the car ride harsh. It looks like I will probably be getting a set after I get the pinion seal leak fixed. Thanks for your input on this issue - I value it more than a lot of the ads.
BLACKLS5
09-21-2023, 05:19 PM
I think Bill is talking about "Southside Machine Bars". This is a brand name but they locate the rear of the lower control arm lower than stock. I've used them in the past and noticed no difference in ride quality. JMO
Too Many Projects
09-21-2023, 05:46 PM
These bars don't affect the ride at all. The bars that are similar to leaf spring bars might. The holes in the 3 "fingers" would require you to drill thru the "fins" on the diff housing for a long bolt to go thru. If you prefer to not do that, they still work well.
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/qa1-5213_xl.jpg
Yes, the QA-1 bars are the ones I am considering - but I did see where one person had said they made the car ride worse. But you can hear anything, especially in the internet era.
The South Side Machine bars are not legal for the Pure Stock Muscle Car Races.
If the QA-1 bars help with traction - as well as stopping the wheel hop - I should be able to get my 60 foot times into the 1.9 sec. area - as I had several 2.07 60 foot times this year.
BLACKLS5
09-22-2023, 02:11 PM
Sorry, I glossed over the part that you were participating in the pure stock drags. Olredalert, my apologies if I put words in your mouth about what you were referencing.
Too Many Projects
09-22-2023, 11:11 PM
What are you running for shock absorbers ? Good, HD shocks will help curb the rebound of the diff/springs releasing tension. The stop hop bars relocate the upper control arm higher at the diff to give the suspension a better geometry to combat the hopping.
olredalert
09-23-2023, 03:50 PM
----Thanks for a better explanation, Mitch. Yes, stop hop bars push the instant center about three feet forward and the result is no hop! Used them on Red Alert with great outcome....Bill S
Ryan1969Chevelle
09-23-2023, 04:55 PM
I don’t have a wheel hop issue, I think mostly as I used my original coil springs and the lower control arms are horizontal.
I have lots of upgrades coming for PSMCDR 2024, hop stop bars, 4.10 gears, solid upper and lower rear control arms, air bags, station wagon brakes, you name it!!!
Great to meet!!
Ryan W31
Too Many Projects
09-23-2023, 07:56 PM
Ryan, I assume you mean tubular control arms but with urethane bushings ?
The '70 SS I bought in '73 had solid arms with no bushings and no provision to grease anything. The holes in the diff and frame brackets were pounded out almost twice the size from the PO racing it. I had to get new, original, arms from the dealer, center everything with a tape and weld washers on all the brackets to keep it in place.
Ryan1969Chevelle
09-23-2023, 10:53 PM
Ryan, I assume you mean tubular control arms but with urethane bushings ?
The '70 SS I bought in '73 had solid arms with no bushings and no provision to grease anything. The holes in the diff and frame brackets were pounded out almost twice the size from the PO racing it. I had to get new, original, arms from the dealer, center everything with a tape and weld washers on all the brackets to keep it in place.
I am keeping things very close to stock, Just going to change to Hotchkiss control arms that look stock (I’ll take off the silly stickers) but are more rigid than my original FE2 boxed lowers and open uppers.
PS: even though Al Stager ordered FE2 rear suspension it didn’t come with the rear lower frame braces so I added those…. I am confident they also help prevent wheel hop by connecting and triangulating between upper and lower rear control arms.
Ryan W31
I'm using KYB Gas-Adjust mono-tube shocks, and the car has the rear lower frame braces along with boxed lower control arms and the rear anti-sway bar. And as I've mentioned it has all new Moog control arm bushings. Car is not jacked-up and the lower control arms set fairly level. Car has stock rear coil springs from a 1970 SS Chevelle - I mentioned earlier in this thread that the car had extra tall and awful stiff springs in it when I got it. Some people though that was because of the slicks that must have been used on it at some time in the past.
But whatever - I'm experiencing wheel hop and it must be stopped.
Right now I need to get the pinion leak stopped. All the new parts have arrived so I've got to get the mechanic to give me a date to bring the car.
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.