NorCam (Graeme Browne's) Lemans Blue 1969 Z/28

[NorCam]

Do you know if originals were flat, semi gloss, or gloss black?

[X66 714]

They're on the glossy side but not full gloss...Joe

[NorCam]

Sanded and repainted some engine parts while the weather has been decent of late. This included the original fan, original pulleys and a few odds and ends that needed refinishing. In particular, the engine peripherals to match the original engine which was rebuilt and repainted. Back on the car this weekend and working inside the engine bay now.

I also wanted to give props to Lloyd Costley who was kind enough to share a lower rear leaf to replace the broken one that was found in this car. He reached out last week and quickly shipped me the much-needed part which is going to work out great for this car.

Thanks again, Lloyd. I really appreciate you hooking me up with this leaf. :youguysrock:

https://i.ibb.co/1dKFyBd/001-fan.jpg
Repainted the fan to match it's surrounding in the engine bay.

https://i.ibb.co/f9f94fF/002-Pulleys.jpg
Pulleys were all in different finishes so these were all repainted.

https://i.ibb.co/vHQ74PL/003-Pulleys.jpg
Also painted some small parts that each had some paint loss.

https://i.ibb.co/r4jGL2g/004-Rad.jpg
Radiator is recored and paint. Need to spray the core some more.

https://i.ibb.co/pJLW6PZ/005-Leaf.jpg
Broken leaf is now matched up with an original given to me by Lloyd.

[napa68]

At this rate, that subframe will be off in no time:)

[NorCam]

The subframe is not coming off!

As a matter of fact, I finally got onto the front end today and got the passenger side inner fender cleaned up. It actually dialed back rather nicely and has left a cool patina with a few wear marks being left behind from the heater hoses having had rubbed through the original paint close to the mid fender clamp. I'll continue on tomorrow with the inner front subframe rails and will then work my way across the K members and up onto the other side. Once complete I will then go after the outer control arms and the suspension from the wheel well side of things. Happy with the progress thus far and in no rush.


https://i.ibb.co/BZNZGc0/Engine-Bay-Before-1.jpg
Before hitting the inner fender with Lloyd's graffiti remover.

https://i.ibb.co/qRDtRB1/Engine-Bay-After-1.jpg
After a scuff and a few wipe downs, it's looking a bit aged. I like it!

[NorCam]

Sometimes a little trial and error with cleaning can lead to a bonehead move. Case in point was to clean the original smog trees which in all fairness were fairly decent, to begin with. Further to that, I would have said they previously fit the bill of survivor condition. Until I screwed that up. I thought the evapo-rust being as mild as it is would simply clean them up a touch, but dunking them in there even for a short period was a big mistake. In a matter of about 20 minutes it leveled the original coating and they came out looking bare without any original coating. Like the copperish colored base or what was left of it simply wiped right off of them. This was just before MCACN and I was pretty choked at myself for not leaving those alone.

Since then I have tried finding someone who could reapply the phosphate coating and really never found anyone who could replace the factory-like finish. I read some posts about dunking them in a phosphate solution, and that others had painted them black with some phosphate spray paint but decided to try something else and see what brown colors I could find. Enter Stove Bright high temp primer and paint. I found this reddish metallic primer rated for 1200 degrees and then paired that with a can of Bark Brown which looked close to the original copper-like tone. Ordered them from Amazon in late December and they finally showed up about 5 weeks later. Needless to say, I prepped the tubes and today I put a couple of coats of the red primer on them before hitting them with the bark brown. It isn't exactly copper colored but I sure like the low luster satin finish they now have after a couple of coats of this high temp paint.

With the engine already having been rebuilt and painted by others, I'm planning to tumble the exhaust manifolds next week and get them looking more factory-like. With that now in the works, the smog trees should look right at home when the engine bay is all back together in a few short weeks. Once I put some heat through them I'll see how they blend in I suppose?

Note to self, evapo-rust and original smog trees do not mix. That original finish is quite delicate and does not play well with chemicals. Now, if you ever want to repaint a set of smog trees...here's what I ended up finding through Amazon. IMHO, the results are not too bad, in spite of my previous lack of judgment. (lol) Here's the stuff...

https://i.ibb.co/RNfb0nf/IMG-9002.jpg
The high temp primer and the brown paint I used to refinish the trees.

https://i.ibb.co/GMhGdhr/IMG-8193.jpg
Here's how they looked after dunking them in Evapo-Rust (big no-no)

https://i.ibb.co/SX9Z2xJ/IMG-9001.jpg
And here they are after being refinished. Hoping these fade a touch after some heat cycling. The paint was fresh here and they have darkened up some more since drying.

[Salvatore]

Great work G.

[HawkX66]

You definitely have to be careful of Evaporust. I put some brake hardware in and all nice the paint marks came off. I just use high concentrate vinegar now. It's a lot cheaper too.

[Tracker1]

Yeah Evaporust will destroy or remove any original plating... zinc, cad, phosphate etc. I too had to learn that by experience :(

[NorCam]

Making good progress on the floors and subframe the past couple of days. My US deliveries also arrived today with a few nice original parts that will complement the differential going back into the car. I have my helper coming tomorrow so the fuel line will go back in followed by the differential. That will allow me to get the front end in the air next week and start cleaning the front suspension with the wheels off the car. Boogying right along here now.

https://i.ibb.co/SVpYPsj/IMG-9054.jpg

[NorCam]

Floors are all cleaned up behind the firewall and things are starting to go back together now. I mounted the original tank but knowing that the car's getting a concourse exhaust system with resonators and chrome tailpipes, the dented old tank is really made for a bit of an opposite detraction so I've opted to set it aside and store it for future consideration. Also decided to blow in some black paint on the diff as I was struggling with the look when I finished cleaning it up. There were a number of bare spots exposed and I needed to cover those up. I shot both tubes with a single coat of black and it is what it is.

Another concern was stripping the black paint at the bottom of the firewall where the lower floor seam meets up. All along the bottom of the toe boards and the areas around the tunnel had to a lot of gray primer being exposed after cleaning. And I would say it's plenty more than what would be considered normal or acceptable. I'm thinking the shop that reinstalled the motor, washed it down with thinners before they shot the black in for the former owner's brother. In any case, I wasn't digging all the gray so I fogged in the areas where the straight primer was exposed and blended it in so it looks better. I'm happy with the results of those decisions and it's looking miles ahead of the mess that the previous owner created.

Here are a few shots of the floors and the rear end now that the diff and the new tank are under the body. Once I'm finished upfront and the motor and transmission are reinstalled, the Gardner exhaust will be hung and I'm sure it will balance the old and the new. Not quite as I had planned for with a total dial back to original, but a compromise that I am totally OK with. Still, a lot of work to be completed on the front half of the car so I will see how that unfolds as I start cleaning the front clip this weekend. Fingers crossed on any more surprises upfront, but ready to deal with those in any case.


https://i.ibb.co/PtfQJxb/IMG-9095.jpg
Floors are nicely cleaned up with all of the factory finish now exposed and intact.

https://i.ibb.co/zQ1GmSj/IMG-9090.jpg
Here's a view looking down the tunnel after all the black spray paint was removed.

https://i.ibb.co/mhbJBys/IMG-9093.jpg
Another shot of the back with the differential back under the car and the broken leaf repaired.

https://i.ibb.co/qpn03Nm/IMG-9084.jpg
And finally, a view from the back. Yeah, I know...new tank but it will match the new Gardner exhaust that's going around it soon.

[R68GTO]

Looking awesome Graeme! I really like what you're doing with this Z. I have a pair of original chrome tailpipes that were stored in an attic for 40 years - they would be perfect for an original car like yours. Let me know if you have interest.

[NorCam]

Looking awesome Graeme! I really like what you're doing with this Z. I have a pair of original chrome tailpipes that were stored in an attic for 40 years - they would be perfect for an original car like yours. Let me know if you have interest.

Sent you a message. Thanks

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Your doing a nice job Graeme!! Did you ever get back with N.C. DMV about info on your Z??

[NorCam]

I tried getting through a couple of times with limited success. Not giving up on that I actually called again today and left another message for the gal in charge of this department to call me back. NC DMV has purged all info prior to 1990 with any older information now stored on microfilm. Apparently, this title department I was dealing with can request the microfilm department search for a given VIN, but I was told this would take some time to search. If a VIN has originally been titled in NC, they would have a record of it as well as a copy of its Certificate of Origin. Her department is the one that requests those film searches, but she was very clear this taking some time to produce. Once a VIN is found, they can then add it back into the database and produce copies of any original documents that are found.

I'm hoping that a couple of gentle reminders and follow up calls helps speed that process along, and hoping that the car was originally from North Carolina as was rumored. Shot in the dark and time will tell...

[Zedder]

Super nice car!

[NorCam]

I started working on all of the brake lines today and Pulled back the master cylinder and the steering to get everything on the left side of the engine bay accessible for cleaning and detailing. Hard lines are now soaking in evapo=rust to get them cleaned up. Also, here's the Gardner exhaust kit that will be installed once the engine goes back into the car.

https://www.gardnerexhaust.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/69camarosbresonator.jpg

[napa68]

Nice!

[x77-69z28]

Keep up the great work Graeme!
Buddy

[ban617]

Fantastic work to clean off all the extra paint underneath...

[Flying Undertaker]

Graeme: Have you thought about using some kind of protectant underneath after you had stripped everything to Original Paint? I used kerosene (process related to me by an old heavy equipment operator) on a rag and wiped down the whole underneath of my '71 Monte Carlo. It dries to same sheen as original and can be recoated as necessary to keep the look fresh. It works well on firewall, radiator support and inner wheelwells also!
Don.

[NorCam]

Great tip Don...

I was thinking of simply waxing the bottom end with some Meguiar's product and protecting what's there. Likely the same with the firewall. The car will never see water as long as I own it so not terribly concerned about any moisture. My shop is also a heated dry storage garage and our climate here is dry for the most part so it's in really good hands here as far as preservation goes.

[NorCam]

Didn't get too much done the past week, but back onto some cleaning and detailing today. I started cleaning up the original brake lines to get rid of all the black paint that was sprayed on them. Chemicals did a good job of softening it up and the wire wheel did the rest. Nothing too sparkling, just enough to eliminate the spray paint that covered them prior. These will be going back on as seen. I also painted the water pump which was the last of the engine parts being corrected. This one is dated J-10-9 More coming soon...

https://i.ibb.co/889JV9F/IMG-9148.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/XCksvgC/IMG-9151.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wWB7Yhs/IMG-9153.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/M5dtNbc/IMG-9155.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/VYHXz5G/IMG-9156.jpg

[NorCam]

Spent the rest of the day detailing the engine bay and cleaning up the original booster. Used some cleaner and a brass brush to knock most of the surface rust off the front face. Next up will be the 309 master cylinder and the original lid. I also got this receipt emailed to me by George Kulp. He's the one that rebuilt the 302 back in 2015. I'd say he has a good memory as the parts are exactly as he described from memory when we spoke a couple of months ago. Nice of him to send me this copy of the receipt. I wish I could get a small block rebuilt for this kinda dough nowadays. (chuckling at that thought)

https://i.ibb.co/pW87VDT/IMG-9168.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QJm3N88/FIT-Engines.jpg

[NorCam]

Taking a break to watch the Daytona race here today but made some more progress cleaning up the engine bay prior to the race. The driver's side fender is now clean with a couple of small spots to hit one more time before I get to the cross member and control arms next. I'm really liking this car more and more every day, and love how it's cleaning up. Hopefully all y'all are not getting tired of all the pictures. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/D8frm44/IMG-9173.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ZKHgHXZ/IMG-9174.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0V4f9yL/IMG-9175.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6sdrzHc/IMG-9176.jpg

[big gear head]

Keep 'em coming! I'm looking at every one of them.

[L72Chevelle]

Great car and love all the pics! Thanks.

[NorCam]

Been a hectic week business-wise, but still finding some time to get out to the shop and work on the brake system here and there. All of the parts have cleaned up nicely and are now going back together. This includes all the hard lines, clips, bolts, check valve, distribution block, proportioning valve, and the master cylinder. Here's another group of pictures to share as the car starts going back together with parts starting to go back on from the rear forward. It's really great putting parts back on when they actually fit as they should. It's also been great knowing that many of these parts came off rather easily as well since this car was not rusty, to begin with.

https://i.ibb.co/Yf3JxsX/001-Paint.jpg
Original paint mark on the proportioning valve.

https://i.ibb.co/Wx6wdS5/002-Brake-Parts.jpg
Cleaning up all of the parts on the bench. Not replating anything here.

https://i.ibb.co/JHSKTH4/003-Master.jpg
The lid is cleaned on the master, but not being restored or replated.


https://i.ibb.co/xq37KTh/004-Clip.jpg
#3952757 Line Bracket. I never knew there were numbers on this part.


https://i.ibb.co/p2QBTR8/006-Rear-Lines.jpg
Started installing the hard lines working from the rear diff forward.


https://i.ibb.co/4MNrWZd/007-Brass-JB.jpg
Check Valve cleaned up nicely. I had to replace the flare nut on the right side.

https://i.ibb.co/DDVNLDR/008-Clips-Bolts.jpg
The original clips and bolts cleaned up nicely. Again, not replating anything.

https://i.ibb.co/1MdwjtD/009-floors-Bolts.jpg
A little patina left behind after cleaning the floors and lines back here. Love it!

https://i.ibb.co/JnnBJp4/010-Master.jpg
The master back in place with the front lines coming soon.

[NorCam]

Weather has been really decent for the past month or so in western Canada. Plus temps for most of the last 4 weeks and not long before spring arrives here. I can't wait to get the rest of this cleaning done and get the car back to looking like this. It's only a few weeks away from being done and getting it out for a few rips on the mountain roads.

https://i.ibb.co/D4RwjMc/IMG-7927.jpg

[mockingbird812]

Top notch Graeme. Lovin’ it!!!!!:headbang:

[NorCam]

Since I got the car and saw the 621 bell housing, I have been wondering if this was a late-year parts scramble or if someone had changed it over to a large clutch. Seeing the cast nose starter gave me further clarification and today my suspicions were confirmed when I pulled the bell housing to see what was in there. A jobber quality 11" clutch with a resurfaced 733 flywheel dated January of 70. I can only surmise the previous owner switched out the clutch when the motor was in and out of the car as it all looks like brand new with almost zero use.

In either case, it's coming off as I now look for another flywheel and a decent 10.5" clutch. At the same time, I'll install a correct 403 bell housing since I have another one sitting here that's ready to go. If only cars could tell the tale. Judging from the wear marks on the inside of the flywheel (block side against the crank flange) it looks to have been there for quite a while? Thoughts anyone?

https://i.ibb.co/xfH0yX4/IMG-9264.jpg

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

[QUOTE=NorCam;1484525]Since I got the car and saw the 621 bell housing, I have been wondering if this was a late-year parts scramble or if someone had changed it over to a large clutch. Seeing the cast nose starter gave me further clarification and today my suspicions were confirmed when I pulled the bell housing to see what was in there. A jobber quality 11" clutch with a resurfaced 733 flywheel dated January of 70. I can only surmise the previous owner switched out the clutch when the motor was in and out of the car as it all looks like brand new with almost zero use.

In either case, it's coming off as I now look for another flywheel and a decent 10.5" clutch. At the same time, I'll install a correct 403 bell housing since I have another one sitting here that's ready to go. If only cars could tell the tale. Judging from the wear marks on the inside of the flywheel (block side against the crank flange) it looks to have been there for quite a while? Thoughts anyone?


Is it a LuK ??

10 Spline?

For sale?

So far in my experience they are good for 18 trips down the drag strip :-)

Ryan W31

[NorCam]

Ryan,

I'll PM you the details on what's there.

[NorCam]

Continued on with some more cleanup today. Digging out the front right suspension and trying to get rid of a few layers of grease and grime along with more of that black paint the previous owner sprayed on the control arms. Original ball joints were packed inside all that old grease. Dust shields are cleaning up nicely here. I'll finish cleaning up this side before moving onto the driver's side later in the week.

https://i.ibb.co/JBPTbFZ/IMG-9286.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/3Ywhmxk/IMG-9293.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KDWQkxw/IMG-9295.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wNc75fK/IMG-9298.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/d0jC9hy/IMG-9302.jpg

[m22mike]

LQQKING great under all the built up stuff...:biggthumpup:

Mike

[NorCam]

Hello there Mike! :cool2:

I have to admit it's kinda hard not to tear into things further and rebuild the front suspension, but keeping it together like this keeps me from going too far. I'll clean up and rebuild the front calipers before they go back on, and plan to properly dress the control arms after they are thoroughly cleaned. Hoses all look like they are still good but will require a more in-depth look as they are now 50 years old.

It's coming along nicely.

[m22mike]

You might want to consider replacing the 3 rubber brake hoses ?

JMO Mike

[NorCam]

You might want to consider replacing the 3 rubber brake hoses ?

JMO Mike

Yup...we must be thinking alike buddy. Jimmy at Heartbeat has all three on the way to me. I also ordered a 153 Billet Flywheel and 10.5" performance clutch from Summit this morning.

[ZLP955]

When you get to the driver's side, would be interested to see if there's any ink stamp or paint marking on the outside of the frame horn, near where the bumper support bracket bolts up. Have seen several with faint yellow markings in that area.

[NorCam]

There is a wide band under the black paint along the front frame horn and looks like it should reveal itself nicely. I will keep you posted and hope it comes out to be a clear one with the original paint mark intact. I plan on being really careful in that spot and being rather gentle with that area being cleaned. Here's a picture of that frame horn where you can see the original paint line under the black.

https://i.ibb.co/ky6Hrxp/Frame-Horn.jpg

[X66 714]

In that area between that orange line & the tie down slot is where the yellow date might be....Joe

[ZLP955]

In case it helps, just found some more images of driver side frame markings in this CRG thread:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11678

[X66 714]

Here's a picture of the frame rail on Skip's late 69...Joe

[napa68]

Here it is on the 68 Harry Mann car I had...............

https://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b437/napa68/Harry%20Mann%2068%20L78%20-%20L88%20Camaro/006_zps719d4521.jpg (https://s1043.photobucket.com/user/napa68/media/Harry%20Mann%2068%20L78%20-%20L88%20Camaro/006_zps719d4521.jpg.html)

https://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b437/napa68/Harry%20Mann%2068%20L78%20-%20L88%20Camaro/007_zpsr3rinxzs.jpg (https://s1043.photobucket.com/user/napa68/media/Harry%20Mann%2068%20L78%20-%20L88%20Camaro/007_zpsr3rinxzs.jpg.html)

[rlw68]

Hey Graham, looks like your having fun. Mine is almost ready for the paint shop. Thought you might like these 'X" markings I found inside both fenders and also the lower valance. I need to go look at the frame again for the others.


159366

[napa68]

Graeme,

Not that you are deeper into this project, what is your preference for removing the "fluff paint"? Anything you would stay away from?

Enjoying the project as always!

What ya buying next?

Tim

[NorCam]

Hey Tim,

As I might have mentioned, the stuff I've been using is Lloyds fight back graffiti remover, and it works excellent when removing a layer or two of spray paint from the undercarriage and suspension. It can be bought in a spray can or bulk form. I've used about 4 spray cans on this car and I am nearly finished. Spraying in control bursts I applied the spray pattern to a small 12" x 12" area at a time and let it set up for 1 to 2 minutes. I then used a white (ultra-fine) and/or green (fine) Scotch Brite pad to work the area in either a directional or circular motion to move the spray paint around while it was being softened by the chemicals. I could see the chemicals softening the paint as I worked it and was careful to keep the work area wet where the chemical also became the lubricant for the pad. This also kept the strokes from being too aggressive. Just a light scuff with the pad was all that was needed to work through the softened spray paint while it was still wet. Getting the area wet and letting the product set up for 1-2 minutes was the key as it began to break down each layer of spray paint. It also served to soak and lubricate the Scotch Brite pad and this keeps the process from getting too aggressive or working beyond a single layer of paint at a time. Once it started to thicken or dry I would quickly rinse it down and wipe it off using clean cotton rags. The product calls for a water rinse to neutralize the chemicals. I tried that but it didn't serve well to remove the paint as it started to dry and it seemed to gum up and became tacky again. I switched to using brake clean from a commercial pump sprayer and this was far better at removing all contaminants in a simple swipe.

I would then hit it with one more rinse using brake clean which cleaned each area very nicely. As a safety precaution, I would often open the overhead and shop man doors to air out the shop of any fumes as they build quickly. Concerned with shop safety, I also wore a full face (dual cartridge) respirator mask and good rubber gloves. I also made sure the furnace was off and any source of spark was eliminated prior to using any of these products. It would be better using these chemicals outdoors or in a better environment, but being that it's winter up here and temps are kind of cold, I was working in a heated 3 bay garage that I use for my personal workshop. In any case, you can see from the results here that this product is excellent to soften up and remove any spray paints from the original surfaces and produces excellent results. Not everyone is comfortable with brake clean for rinsing things down, but I thought it was better than many other solvent-based products and worked effectively for this project. Here's the link to a technical datasheet for Lloyd's product.

https://www.lloydslaboratories.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Fight-Back-Graffiti-Remover.pdf

You can buy it in a spray bomb as seen below, or you can buy it in a bulk container and dispense from a large pump-action spray bottle. Just be sure you wear gloves and eye protection. It claims to be a fairly safe chemical and is biodegradable but it states that the spray mist should not be inhaled. Again, I chose a mask to avoid breathing in any fumes or mist caused by the spray, and also wore a mask that integrates full eye protection. A must for working under the car and also while spraying brake cleaner. Better safe than sorry is what I like to practice.


https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-hc8atn07gg/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/328867/5211484/LYD-Fightbackcatalog__42016.1582318917.jpg?c=2

[NorCam]

I'm at a bit of a standstill right now as debate the direction I am continuing with on the front end. The previous black paint and fluffing it received prior, really sucked. Whoever did it sprayed over the top of grease and dirt in many areas including the front suspension and the subframe. Now that I've cleaned the floors and all of the hard lines from the back of the car forward, it's really looking good underneath the car, and that's where my dilemma kicks in.

My concern was with the front subframe and the suspension but that may be behind me now (lol). I've already detailed the rear diff and cleaned up the frame rails which are miles ahead of what it looked like before. In cleaning the front suspension it really dialed it back to a more natural look, but that made for a mismatch with the rest of the car which has already been repainted with the engine and peripherals already rebuilt. Floors look completely natural now and they are fine like that, but the front subframe and control arms didn't match the rest of the car so I changed direction and gave it some freshening with a mild restoration of sorts. Sparingly applied, I dusted the front suspension and K member and blew in some black paint to dress them up and have the car looking a bit more consistent.

Not what the purists want to see (I can hear their teeth grinding) but it's now done on one side and taken in the direction of a soft restoration where I couldn't leave bare metal and the original finish exposed. In either case, I'm rebuilding the front calipers right now and they will go back on once I have finished cleaning up the dust shields and caliper brackets from the driver's side. Not trying to make it look restored or rebuilt, just a light mist of flat and semi-flat blacks to clean it up and cover any bare spots I dialed back. In the end, I think I'm going to keep this car and will be much happier seeing it like this than having a bunch of exposed metal around an area that's already restored such as the engine and the repaint of the car.

In either case...I think I'm OK with this now. Took a few days to settle with me but I think I made the right choice for the car being what it is. Here are a couple of shots of the passenger side suspension after I cleaned it up, and a shot after blowing some fresh black paint onto it. At least the area was cleaned and prepped this time around. All the dirt and grease were washed away before I fogged it black again. (really I am still on the fence about it) If it doesn't sit well when I'm done, I can always dial it back again. Dilemmas dilemmas. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/ynV5xqL/IMG-9333.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/3dPq1Rv/IMG-9336.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/TvhmZ3x/IMG-9347.jpg

[big gear head]

That's nice, but I think I liked it better before the black paint. Can't you use some of those products that Rick Nelson uses to protect bare metal on the frame? Maybe use some of that rust remover that he uses to take the rust off and then coat it with the metal protector? For some reason the names of those materials won't come to mind.

[R68GTO]

I feel your pain brother. Went through this same process of deciding which way to go. Ultimately decided on full resto...I’d be lying if I said I never second guessed that decision. Your car is/will be awesome no matter which path you take.

[Zedder]

I must be a horrible person...I would have restored the sub-frame completely :)

[NorCam]

I must be a horrible person...I would have restored the sub-frame completely :)

LOL

Been there and done that, but not this time. :worship:

[NorCam]

Dropped off the original exhaust manifolds to a friend's shop last week. He sent them for a few rounds in his block tumbler using some steel shot. Gotta say the exhaust manifolds came out looking great. Now to spray them with a high temp clear and keep them looking this nice. Here's the before and after shots and some pics of the tumbler he uses for cast iron parts cleaning.

https://i.ibb.co/XY5G5pW/IMG-8480.jpg
How they looked before being tumbled.

https://i.ibb.co/ZMMd0kh/IMG-9312.jpg
A look inside his tumbler as he just finished cleaning a block.

https://i.ibb.co/HXrYF9Y/IMG-9313.jpg
The steel shot that he uses for cast iron clean up.

https://i.ibb.co/bJcT8Pm/IMG-9314.jpg
The tumbler itself. These things are cool.

https://i.ibb.co/QpJjN24/IMG-9373.jpg
And the exhaust manifolds after being cleaned up.

[NorCam]

And here are a few more shots of the manifolds c/w smog tubes. The tubes have been restored and I dusted them with a coat of black over the brown coper like finish that's underneath. Hoping after they've been heat cycled a few times, that they start to look more like they should. Last picture is the original 633 calipers after I cleaned them up. Still working on them now and will pull the pistons to check them for pitting inside the bores. If they are good, I'll put new seals in them and clear coat them before they go back on. It they need to be sleeved, I'll send them out for that.

https://i.ibb.co/qm5R53z/IMG-9374.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1njZpp0/IMG-9375.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k4qjnHL/IMG-9377.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/K9mL9rJ/IMG-9380.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/H726M8s/IMG-9381.jpg

[luv2sixty9]

Pitting in the bore doesn't matter for the piston rides on the O-Ring.

[NorCam]

Finally got around to cleaning up the rotors and have the pistons removed from the calipers. Bores look pretty good and the cores are now soaking in evapo rust to further clean them before installing new slides, seals and o-rings. Should have these back on when things warm later next week. Had a wintery blast drop some more snow on us this weekend and a big plunge in temperatures. Should make it out to the shop today to get some more work done as there's nothing else to do right now (other than watch mecum online).

No NHL means more time on the car I guess?

https://i.ibb.co/B2gGrLT/IMG-9415.jpg
Original rotors washed down and ready for a light facing.

https://i.ibb.co/Ss6FSwx/IMG-9416.jpg
This yellow paint daub and a white stencil number are somewhat visible.

https://i.ibb.co/y6hq86y/IMG-9422.jpg
Both rotors are still within spec. Will clean up with a couple of thou off each side.

https://i.ibb.co/djzyZYf/IMG-9466.jpg
Pistons are good and bores are fairly decent looking. Back into the cleaner!

https://i.ibb.co/MncYx2P/IMG-9467.jpg
They're both soaking now Madge. But it isn't in Palmolive (lol)

[NorCam]

Been busy trying to finish some big projects at work but found some time to get out to the shop and the calipers are finished up. Last week, I also dropped the rotors off to a friend and he surfaced them for me. Only took a couple thousand off each side to face them. New bearings are packed, new brake hoses are sitting off to the side here and the restored brake hardware will be going back on very soon.

https://i.ibb.co/ByyFqrz/IMG-9507.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dmTRj1T/IMG-9503.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ygSJbwr/IMG-9505.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/kmtcCFr/IMG-9522.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/qdKvV5z/IMG-9520.jpg

[mockingbird812]

Beautiful work Graeme!!!!:worship:

[napa68]

I hope to see this car in person one day! MCACN 2020........yeah........that's it!

[NorCam]

Perhaps, if I still have it in November that could be possible Tim. :smirk:

I still have a couple of people who've been staying on me about selling it when it's finished and that's still a real possibility. I'm going to put some miles on it come April/May, but may in fact sell it if the price is right. We'll see once the snow has melted and the dust has settled on the other matters currently affecting the world.

[firstgenaddict]

My own personal observations are that when blending "new work" into an original car - Most people use entirely too much paint which sticks out like a sore thumb... you have to do it as crappy as it was originally.
To blend frames/subframes -I have mixed some roofing tar with black paint and rubbed it into the frame with a rag... it doesn't stick out and will not result in over spray anywhere.

In this shot you can see where I rubbed the paint into the subframe...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SxpnsjvMR2ptzqhKT8EhnY2aada5Fv_AluZ4Gsqu5_dnHXzI4H ysDIwP9OimzGVA8LifiT16h7X01wFYbMx1xW0JZX_pnuIXzGN3 cyrJK6kyafFjhh4G9Az4lcw9eTNtZsvtWUSx0JMaADxpq8HjwX B5uGzypAkb_Y5aGLdKeUrvKGWpqyy7jsChqXSh1aMJLAgizEm8 hIdLLeDTDZH1C6Mh1tb2juthSEXB-ZedoXVdU2XYa9GrqSSsLqIQPSRanYhq1c5_5qbcNFwqpLcQdWw I7tW7Q9dhO4JggdXMSgX7lX-Y-Dt1IXYA28Quq37ZQrW3Iv6BECZBFHaJbtje_jA5TvWb2gg6sVO DGVSWlXzov9IDjRg0LCRrT1VECs-ANe4WdwEw86g6nHjgm-ko9xewsSs0IImuEOh4po5PsdmnUg6ytAb674NFEfoBY3mxRHCh zD0iNDK0IDDSyjRCzzHxzHbwBmZbob9HU7A3eLCKhPh9Dt_PqL sbuul996QQxS7PLRM_1fbTrM9BJJSl2jfLL7sd96EwNH0Zx1sn 85zP5rdsRQVAKfsc8DFPb0_-Njaa1rntQCjmhYofBq-_I1y1UmzXiTNko-tYjvoRMeLIOMTZoTNwCLC6Go_OfxkGkJHj6IQAzaxvw6P3KZz7 6p9LM-PAgcEFwSvlcNIeaVBSePI_oLCozY_blUAigyLG4KFXY6TgbOJC FBf8MV05ffFY71DiqjGQBY7a1tMVEM1ckTgBIn8Ok-4=w1461-h1095-no

A light coat of semigloss on the calipers and then file/sand the machined areas like original...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fROz9nOo4S5tKCz4-F8fnxQgNVeic4XHGnTfibXOL4NLTRkiZMq4RbfKo-9tU4HWFmjyil-O5eCi_ka7a0QEcWk_yNyHd-nw0-yBAMzbTLIHSNXTxvrq7VwK4korVDKETAlBOSv49EfWLEbb1COb ZsBdYQQzGWL1kMPTDEvfaNXhBQMwh72WQPpho9bLxXTQzww7f-1Js5lwWnsJJ9QQXvENvMQmmKbjZbBQ_Iy_wW_b-0pkryK0Xh7Srv5wlZ5-hto8TpcSmvfWvAzFTB4Efs3-wrs96tgjCT94mWU-Mz4s9Os1QW7AtdQ4mHgaH96HD1AcOA3v9R7IS-v3ApDdxzcrXMZaX3onOcm-OiTgkabq_a_1FIQKZ3Kp_tk19XOxy1gJSG5MVIo42YNg9SFZpP IqAspF92NJGQYXAEth9EbkoCjGvKRNTVYDUvBXpoMk2t6SNqwA dIF2N3ldDI5y6msmQeQhJeuZiS4N37Omveii3xDlJS1o3GfQW7 pfuQkptMWisn8NlOpCnViFuYgAvfAz__VxMXDtWe30llcC70m4 jbN-3KlbrWUAQgM9SKd2lw3H6G6FFgdI_3vx8zidixZf2FzxjKkhNa zPieGXsU8I7M8y4dBwDPrw2E7AtEwsVs5U7O63-iowlIcw8XhRXoiNBbb6bjhgyNsBF-mccnonLt_vVG0ZbnM5Z5YQUd9ppEHEeV8fhFA4bAWdrX03O5V-iUfrwUtPXr76LVb5HLFIHwLxOH1OnZU=w1194-h895-no

Casting Date
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S6SGBtANU6mOKM5NsdjxISAlLgMBklkHNUjE5Xihng0PgR323e KdHkJfnfGXNn5Lcc_r8HoIi72rJcB4PkUE5RTDZGXTXa_V3gIW _-EwqEA0H66BeuFjlJNbsFYS0S86h82UBBnahH8tJwuCqW99VMzV r7tiyhrw972koLT_aArdG4Q8DtQEi_l1KHIcLNAss5y0qjpNYq Zgdi-nHY8DbioVI9TzfHeG9VvSBuifzMpTHP-klwNJcPUEpRuf7la4zdCvUYi_EvEjmRH_Y19rKyvVt1WuCyHgn wC_0n354Bll59eOzSZo0TF5IR5SVCxeCl1mxHEygFegOXlmnbQ 1mPN81DBbotrQNs0qEg16ZJU26e-W2Uck4mpbY8v5wSVRmS6qLfIJ38opunWMXqh2L26cB_cAoIhcu OZ4jF5mpKnQEtZl2KjQ_3FxzxanHbs4K2m6YtB5c6Y5340n8_N zALfu7Vv8ZKPmCs_6ntCqblQgQoFV5dh3Unia2DGMFv3Jikdbp GFlRSvl6XzNpqlFteEg2-j4whXsWHyLPDuIsj6phAjNOrSoiFJK1lrV6WrLUZhwSZW61X3-IN_4GAVqNx87F-BHUr_NW_SIVMYV2pgh3K4kGmBRTukq-dYtrVHv8ZDjIkPbL_voARbv5WmXmYdjO4A4cG5DnL6NDb-C8E4QGlcpEncg9XJfgpQT6KUnXeAC-3ztYxySzR3aC1D5qa6d3XpP-M5TNWsiUk6O5lJPGzhnqs-rCJI=w1461-h1095-no
Assembly date
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_zxbCk_ip1CorCRQNxG_b0KiDpLoo-__HHI3s8pbxVpDw9rUwM4adxaOTjBu8FwlPFXIDvOEDcMJuqy2 lgAN3M2ceODnJ23BO6re5aAgt0zo66N1_cyjYC2Dozjbk6RcpD wpIcoZccERVNYwNRzhXGe-oNxZSSgzew-8Vy4ViB5uoa1h2egnQoqe7l1N6pOhUGaRh2OV3zayESHpAHuR5 a7Lh3PlADzlsfd0VIVlcescZ9v-UhrTFGlTf3oVLNF0EFN7lfPC96hYBx6hZSAGX4bzEbgQdaiXLm eMb3H3QqglChaDFLDPhZgXv8N7nwD4EcYlR2NxMuEHWJnFVDdc EG9ol8s3MSLOgoRAr_mc68G_G4GZJ4evBBqLIEf0H4TmkPodwr 2zgCat2-w7JCM8_CmasFDm4-yLN6TTuPjixQGnX20gAQ7aK_HgUvOft8FsHrvl98YAINckJ-e7aUb74TlBXgWcTU-OkSN8XfRdkJ6RYpso-j1U_bbJcjv0bx9wZMyRkFdBUvnH5unJdI2SNVd9Pi5LvR6qVpA dlnP5shTe55Ex1Hq1GWTXl5kcKCvxerzXunWhFgZIOedBIq4Ig uYlN3YZrETWkIPMVrQJkULPXIKNK_Dy7Gg7MnxuFFZRWoGbdyz RBL6SvLC3-ZtOhtpr_19KG02_8fSkSjO18uDlxaisIU8vjEb-186HKtpZotMkCNsLHpGv8EtOxLE0VwhSH5tmpMe3TSzh-PHiKZxtzf_Yc5xzO74=w1461-h1095-no

Here is a photo of the entire subframe with the tar paint mixture blended into the frame...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uX22MXUpoACEpQCNsQeK2b4UaklFXjWbCQqlUgf-eb2X7ppEjR0pF7mwIfH-MjoipTyD4iYFTY9w_0jHmdylNHJHbl6MMv9C2YJEMiqegaYYWi-UcH3aBj-zXGuzJGszY9Ng6lMie9fSmLtV8C6fPXuZ0-16DzhgxDDVPg9YVqLVDuahjkUzOK06q_dis2RTXzu4891341Sh 3qH5bhiCGy63kZISwS6fu94_KnD6_TP6Q-h2Lo-4LbzYoNKwmfuSseVjiIRIIyi0OKv4ujOG-GTSXAKT0fkTce3XjrkimLvUzLW5SNmyYi6oDfXNCd1eeYt6EYl sv0eFBYHBh95t5my3G2zqbQg6-hg_jR-WDh4UbMrm2EucGeBmE5TIgf5zPulgVEouoJ16PQVof_3D4VLVD 7GdvkKiiUpugaxEJvWR2ccB6MQ6Z46gJBCG0z9i5s-Up-Qy_FVJs2uGzWQaMpWuFTMmcYLnyYQJecY8oScC_WChQK0mrwwb BR1r8JkHjuHzjgs6BSpygCROw30Y-VlONxjIwB-gqLoeQbVUL7UqL09D1KLv4TSIFzSCIm3y6TgusoBbCd0Dk9pQ0 ecjXHfPGcItw_aIqgXm_zYFBCOgyZGV6Rq1CBIHsR_bJYIdfNy MDDBxFBQLgUnbA5UoSz7G-HxtZlpsn49inU2WQElZUOgy4swdWmawSvWAX1Sjw-Y6A7vBknh0cXdJBvg4xSaKvuiedp_AmwN2xbAr3TjnW9_d_Jr1 Ap4=w1280-h854-no

and what the car looks like after a few years...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UJ_8xCru1_RQIhpO1KYD00HLHXYV_wRPJAm3Orp5Wee71VPwzX NodFFRGc0KHxqhh3LlLfeW2tbigUaROpaXpCkpMnJ-OBe0hIrukJMgND1k15Cw2cFSC9AIic9H_G2jvgDbBihaM_dfwm cP9w6aj2pLfV_SFu4VZqTjDNtx1u7vNnxWgA9QIJuqRwDq89AG Je-B6E6zsIkg8Qpdjn-0YtryKOH43Bguv_5PC8sii7YzjoOqAePDz4EyLiZG96L_Rw4XB uend6MXr7SaoGUedzgxHuKUn2xAeDosJFMDWDPCbNDkFy9E0c_ qaTg2uDXbYDhGoTlkc9XVAPf04XeGw63SLAlPWfa-Hk2p_KKK9lz1R0o7l0KTCAVQqQrZfXy_dPhDatxhENh33Qfiuq I-ng-AU09Jwxl53Qf6Xemo8AVt4MJCcHdDCqtKyJLi0sXjgNPZaNmAk Hhk-H6gzIE4aBy1CHoys6zMNhLyhDknhucUdyibiuVs-6VCDsJQRUEKkmCgpxd6vVI1945PD2T95GVNGuDvffpD3RTq3Sd z56kN19N_eDURCb4DKZc49e5O2WoGjjxG9WEXDMALMwVJOa1b4 xiJcHamiZmevXRO4WHoG7lTCBV6lPQx-fULxvl68cIDeOqoWQ2dEjUC3mxX9u7nabT7PCAGpfF5bOFh6F9 QVEFBAf2nhTU6e9kzVO314HayrNX5xK-EBCjPcWn1TvpWHQar_7XlIVVbizKj6x4Vkl31Bv2xNNU=w800-h600-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kZ4Ci1Nb0SOgYbZ3s00uJ9fxSs1jrlzdsLBULaXXKy_bcaC6Ne 0WMKgvXfdjrEpJXF43PAZT61Q1jY87MgG20nYBCpAgBLxEXr3Q kokbXPqh-Sox9RmJbZW67Oo9JaRfmn-zW3vk54KmKKTLBT-cfuwj6Je3V4RJsYFg2o2-erxJa0yEi7ANt61ZnCPAjItWAUMIp5wMX4PqTS_Q5kxFyvnAVi wSmVhFdxlJSzr5FO2r4MOyDBQj0n3RjeDDGGPxLY9pUzmTHnHz RTrug8i6NTJS58uxmtXPte_p3kICrS8Ox-YyzRdlzmWISPYLsIc5SOrt0vDRVlUJHzsJjvYXEEdaOsgaoq9T YUnJLjQyASj1g1osMwUOXwwUQUoQozvsF8eMkL_eOTL3IGrXUF xFTGqjQwkFr1J2p1XiaTrvWFF2UiePCNtB7ADSnje4C7sHftAL BNjTM6SRynW7LBRwFVifp8MiazEGZIjSGRd99LMpy6glLIfrDL mASGTnDC7H6duOl7J8hlDH-wBODrcc6WOYTvNiiKs7vwJemOb6vCQ6a8a7ueKH4N7asbFuaNd cR_sPeoaRy882lzWiHeETBAGof--9sc0ZV_Ca74zPBDmwspBTkHksSlLYrdUZY1QHB4Cafa-7hCXOrdzxZsp-i9Qju5I4om14Qr_zoP_zmdiI9XkHi9TLF54BrHfTas1A_6LE4K kYdiyfWh5vRS62Yyo6XZOc2S6RM9seEHerigLG07Oo-_ntnmI=w800-h600-no

[NorCam]

Thanks for that. Been so busy making hay while the sun is still shining for our business here that I haven't touched the car in weeks. I should be wrapped up with things here in the next few days and will be jumping back on to finish it up and get it running again.

Still have to deal with the front frame horns as I am not happy with either the current look of it, the wash down stripped look or the touched up look. Might have to try your method out if I don't just dial it back and cover it in BoeShield or something similar.

Are the calipers supposed to be black? Or were they bare from the factory?

[m22mike]

Black

[NorCam]

Black

But I just did such a nice job of cleaning them up. (lol)

Such a shame to paint them! :youguysrock:

[L72Biscayne]

But I just did such a nice job of cleaning them up. (lol)

Such a shame to paint them! :youguysrock:

sent you a PM about LT-1 Valve covers

[NorCam]

Been super busy as of late but finally took some time while the weather was mild to get the bell housing painted up yesterday. It did manage to hit 57 degrees in the afternoon which was OK to paint, but no sooner than this morning and another snowstorm is upon us. I will try and get some more progress happening over the next few days.

https://i.ibb.co/VNdCqLb/IMG-9793.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CHKSHvG/IMG-9792.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/P4YjQFV/IMG-9790.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hYDNm1D/IMG-9788.jpg

[napa68]

He's baaaaack!

Awesome!

[luv2sixty9]

Finally I've been patiently waiting....lol

[NorCam]

Sorry guys...

I needed to build a new website for my company and that alone took hundreds of hours to build and complete. I had to get it right, and we finally launched it last Monday which was a heavy load off my shoulders. Now I can finally get back to working on the car.

Graeme

[DW31S]

Looks good Graeme. Stay safe and healthy.

[napa68]

If you haven't already stabbed the trans in, I'd give some thought to installing an adjustable fork ball. Allows you to optimize the clutch geometry and minimize the pedal effort. Makes a big difference with all of the different parts (aftermarket) to get it right.

[napa68]

Also, wht did you think of the Eastwood rust remover? Did it raise hell with the surrounding paint?

[NorCam]

Tim,

Already have a brand new GM Ball and GM Fork in place. I've looked at the adjustable ones before, but I am happy with the stock setup.

DID NOT like the Eastwood rust treatment. Tried it in a couple of spots and all it seemed to do was encapsulate the area in what would look like a hardened clear gel. In my opinion...it kinda sucks!

[NorCam]

With a new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed on the DZ-302, we finally got some decent weather here this week and I rolled the motor outside to hit it with a coat of orange paint so the engine and bell would match up color-wise. I painted the bell last week and this week I painted the block while dusting the edges of the intake (especially around the corners) as the factory often over sprayed these parts back in the day. In mounting the bell housing and the block, I searched around here and also found a nice set of bell housing bolts with dog bone head markings to button it up.

Also, while finding out last fall that the driver's side cover was in fact a service dated part number that must have been changed, I had not removed the passenger side cover until I painted the motor this week. Turns out it has the correct 3932417 valve cover and would in all likeliness be an original from late 69. I did find a single cover last week to correct the other side and I'm now looking for a set of original O rockers as they were changed when the motor was rebuilt back in 2015. That being said, I should be ready to drop the driveline back in during the next week or two and get it running again. Hopefully, I will be driving it in the next few weeks as long as other interruptions are kept at bay. Life's been dealing me with a few delays lately. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/StNsdNY/IMG-9544.jpg
Installed a 26-lb billet flywheel, performance clutch, and pressure plate. ARP hardware was used.

https://i.ibb.co/mzHGhyd/IMG-9897.jpg
Finally pulled the passenger side cover to find it was actually the right #3932417 part number.

https://i.ibb.co/QMsDTqB/IMG-9918.jpg
Here's the 403 bell housing after it was painted and matched up to the block using correct original hardware.

https://i.ibb.co/fDKRnVh/IMG-9915.jpg
While painting the original block, I dusted the edges of the intake both front and rear. Valve cover edges will be dusted later.

https://i.ibb.co/QH4yDdc/IMG-9916.jpg
Dry fitting the restored exhaust manifolds and smog rails after coating them with high temp VHT clear.

[NorCam]

Here are a couple more shots of the motor before I detail some small parts, replace the vacuum fitting with an original and paint the water pump bolts. Just little details while getting it ready to drop back in. Later today I am hoping to get back onto the front brakes. I'll paint the calipers and they'll soon be reinstalled with new flex lines and the original front rotors that were lightly surfaced. Still have one frame horn to clean up and the driver's side suspension to clean but that should take too long to get done now that the weather is better. More soon.

https://i.ibb.co/SVkbxSP/IMG-9940.jpg
Intake and valve cover's to be left showing a little grime, a little age, and some patina. Trusting the exhaust manifolds will blend in over time.

https://i.ibb.co/0Btg4Sy/IMG-9941.jpg
Here's the front pad left bare from any new paint. Late original block cast J-13-9 and stamped V1021DZ

https://i.ibb.co/MpfYKYy/IMG-9938.jpg
Restored J-10-9 water pump being mocked up. I need to paint the bolts now.

https://i.ibb.co/KLKjyZJ/IMG-9937.jpg
The last of the front end to be cleaned up and detailed before the brakes go back on. Slowly progressing along.

[ZAPPER68]

Hi Graeme,
I'm sure I have a set of '0' rockers in my stash...from what I remember they are in decent shape.
Cheers
Cal

[NorCam]

Hi Graeme,
I'm sure I have a set of '0' rockers in my stash...from what I remember they are in decent shape.
Cheers
Cal

Sent you a PM Cal. :beers:

[NorCam]

While on the topic of parts needed...

I'm also looking for a factory clutch inspection cover and the elusive "Stamp Rite" carb to fuel line bracket if I can ever find those. :naughty:

Shameless Plug :worship:

https://i.ibb.co/j4mQ3xB/Stamp-Rite-Fuel-Line-Bracket.jpg

https://www.corvettecentral.com/product/image/large/532118_532118.main.jpg

[luv2sixty9]

Graeme,
The Inspection cover pictured is for a 621 Bellhousing and not the 403. Dave

[NorCam]

I pasted the wrong link. Now corrected in the previous post. Thanks

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Graeme,
What clutch setup did you go with??

[NorCam]

I was going to go with another Hayes but their flywheels were back-ordered. The guy I spoke with at Summit then suggested I go with a RAM Billet flywheel and said these were the hot ticket at 26lbs. He then suggested a RAM Powergrip Clutch Kit and said they sell these 20 to 1 over that of the Hayes Gold. Real reliable clutch disk and pressure plate which is rated for 550hp.

RAM-1511
Flywheel, Billet Steel, 153-Tooth, Internal Engine Balance, 26.000 lbs., 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, SFI 1.1 $239.00

RAM-98760
Clutch Kit, Powergrip, Iron/Organic, 1 1/8 in.- 10-Spline, 10.5 in. $349.00

[luv2sixty9]

Graeme,
The new picture of the clutch inspection cover is 67 68 for 69 is slightly different.

Thanxs Dave

[NorCam]

No worries Dave.

I don't really have a good picture other than that repro pic from Corvette Central. If anyone has one, feel free to shoot me a pic and I will post it up.

[rszmjt]

Graeme,

Here is a known original 69 Z28 inspection cover, the CC cover looks the same IMO , except for the black paint that could be stripped off.

[rszmjt]

Graeme,
The new picture of the clutch inspection cover is 67 68 for 69 is slightly different.

Thanxs Dave


Dave, Respectfully What is different? According to my GM parts book dated 72 the inspection cover is the same 67/68/69, with no superseded part number

[NorCam]

Finally finding some time to get back onto the Z/28 and cleaned up the driver's side front suspension today. Here are a few paint marks found on the front spindle including a few vertical orange runs and a couple of blue daubs.

https://i.ibb.co/jV47Cx7/IMG-0035.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KKQ7231/IMG-0033.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1Gnx79f/IMG-0032.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bdxNgfX/IMG-0030.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wcQrSNh/IMG-0031.jpg

[NorCam]

Cleaned up the last dust shield and caliper mount from the driver's side and mounted up new soft lines. I also connected all of the front hard lines after stripping the black paint off everything. Tomorrow I will put the rotors back on and mount the calipers back up before bleeding the brakes. Once all of that is done, it'll be time to put the motor back in and get this thing running again. I want to drive it now and put some miles on it. It should be a fun little car with many things having been cleaned up such as the brakes, clutch, and the wheels/tires. Won't be long now.

https://i.ibb.co/8YKTHTj/IMG-0027.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jDHCQQG/IMG-0043.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/fC31MMM/IMG-0047.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/CK22VFr/IMG-0045.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/YcVGvj1/IMG-0049.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/tHRvDBQ/IMG-0050.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Rj7tNkr/IMG-0051.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/3Nxhwfk/IMG-0056.jpg

[ZLP955]

Here's mine, hope that's correct for '69 (but it's going back on there regardless!).

[ZLP955]

Great progress, looking very nice!

[R68GTO]

Great detail pics and progress, thanks for sharing your project!

[napa68]

Looking good Graeme!

[NorCam]

Should be able to put some wheels back on it now.


https://i.ibb.co/v3C3jnj/IMG-0067.jpg

[DW31S]

Should be able to put some wheels back on it now.

https://i.ibb.co/vZKjQz5/IMG-0066.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/v3C3jnj/IMG-0067.jpg

I hope they're Cragars!

[NorCam]

No Sir Dave...

Factory YH wheels for any time it's going to be shown, and TT-D with Wide Oval Radials as my daily drivers.

I'm located close to some major Rocky Mountain highways that are ideal for highway cruising and gear rowing and the Bias Ply's leave a lot to be desired at 70mph so the repro Radials are my choice for actual drivers. I thought long and hard about doing this car up in Day II trim but it's just too original to start playing around with...so I'm staying the course and will keep it stock until I move it along. I'm planning to build another Day II car right after this one is done and that may get some boots and vintage performance goodies, but not this one.

Original wheels with F70 Wide Treads (came with the car)
https://i.ibb.co/P1LQS1B/IMG-6917.jpg

Driver wheels with Wide Ovals...
https://i.ibb.co/D4RwjMc/IMG-7927.jpg

[duskblue]

Damn ,That's a nice looking car.

[m22mike]

The ride height on your Zed is perfect :beers:

[NorCam]

Thanks Mike. Those are pics from last fall.

Currently, it's sitting with the motor out but should settle into the same stance once it goes back in over the next several days. I just finished cleaning everything up and tightening down all the lines yesterday. Today I'll bleed the brakes before I start to put the motor and trans back in. I also added the power steering and I'm really looking forward to driving it here in the coming weeks. The final touch will be to install the Gardner exhaust system which is also sitting here waiting for the motor to go back.

https://i.ibb.co/HnP6KXq/IMG-0072.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Bw4KKVr/IMG-0081.jpg

[NorCam]

Can anyone tell me what color the sway bar was? I have seen the bar being black, grey, and a couple in between. I'm looking to repaint mine and I'm also curious what color the 2 outer mounts were as well? I believe the inner staps were natural and the outer mounts were black? I'm thinking the sway bar was originally black as well.

Thanks in advance for any confirmations on this.

[R68GTO]

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=12083.0

There is a thread on CRG called "Amazing 69 Z28 Survivor". I referenced that thread for many items on my restoration (both late builds like yours) including the sway bar question you have. Memory says black sway bar, black outer mounts, gray phosphate inner retainer.

[NorCam]

Thanks...forgot about that thread. It's as you mentioned above.

Off to the shop to get it cleaned up and reinstalled.

[Edgemontvillage]

Can anyone tell me what color the sway bar was? I have seen the bar being black, grey, and a couple in between. I'm looking to repaint mine and I'm also curious what color the 2 outer mounts were as well? I believe the inner staps were natural and the outer mounts were black? I'm thinking the sway bar was originally black as well.

Thanks in advance for any confirmations on this.

Sway bar was painted 30% gloss black, the end link hardware (bolt, nut, bushing retainer-washers) is either clear (silver) zinc or silver cad. The frame mounting brackets are also painted 30% gloss black, the bolts attaching the bracket are manganese phosphated and the bushing retainer clamp (originals had a P stamped on them) is natural. The bolt & nut are manganese phosphated.

[NorCam]

The front sway bar is now painted and back in the frame with restored original hardware and some NOS bushings & end link hardware with correct bolts. Looks way better than it did before. Here are a few before and after shots of the front suspension to add a little perspective of the cleanup work. (lol)

(The original front sway bar mounts and inside bushings/clamps after P/O painted it all black).
https://i.ibb.co/GV56h2Q/IMG-7110.jpg

(After taking it all apart, detailing it and reinstalling it earlier today. Much better looking IMO).
https://i.ibb.co/5c6R2sg/IMG-0094.jpg

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________

(Original grease and dirt build-up on the control & steering arms along with those gaudy gold end links).
https://i.ibb.co/44RShbF/IMG-7107.jpg

(And here are the NOS end links installed after the front suspension was cleaned up. Miles ahead of where it was before).
https://i.ibb.co/qxZLfm2/IMG-0095.jpg

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________

(Installed a set of NOS end links and bushings on the sway bar. Bolts have WB head marking).
https://i.ibb.co/zbDBJJc/IMG-0091.jpg

(End links installed showing the underside of the a-arm. I need clean this up a bit when it's off of the jack stands and more accessible).
https://i.ibb.co/d5PHyM6/IMG-0096.jpg

[DW31S]

Looks great my friend!

[Edgemontvillage]

Graeme, great work on cleaning up the front end components. I noticed that you replaced the end link hardware with NOS parts and this may not matter, however the end link bolt with the WB (Wales-Beech) head marking used on 69's was a Grade 3 bolt with fine threads. For some larger GM vehicle applications the bolt used was instead a Grade 5, with 3 radial head markings as shown on your replacements, which is also course threaded. The correct bolt has no radial markings.

Original End Link WB Bolt from Skip L's 22K mile 69Z Survivor
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49842359757_7d7d5ebd8d_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iWp85i)[/url] (https://flic.kr/p/2iWp85i)

My original WB bolt (restored)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49841203953_030f986636_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iWicuD) [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/156633854@N02/] (https://flic.kr/p/2iWicuD)

[Salvatore]

Real nice work Graeme. Your photos are a big help to all of us too.

[napa68]

Graeme, great work on cleaning up the front end components. I noticed that you replaced the end link hardware with NOS parts and this may not matter, however the end link bolt with the WB (Wales-Beech) head marking used on 69's was a Grade 3 bolt with fine threads. For some larger GM vehicle applications the bolt used was instead a Grade 5, with 3 radial head markings as shown on your replacements, which is also course threaded. The correct bolt has no radial markings.

Original End Link Bolt WB Bolt from Skip L's 22K mile 69Z Survivor
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49842359757_7d7d5ebd8d_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iWp85i)[/url] (https://flic.kr/p/2iWp85i)

My original WB bolt (restored)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49841203953_030f986636_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iWicuD) [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/156633854@N02/] (https://flic.kr/p/2iWicuD)

That's what came out of my LT-1 as well

[NorCam]

Real nice work Graeme. Your photos are a big help to all of us too.

Just having some fun here Sam. The mission to clean it up did change a bit as I have gotten into this car but was never to restore or overcorrect things along the way. Things that are easily cleaned and/or touched up during the process have been done along the way, and any pre-existing service parts that were incorrect to the car have been replaced with the best originals available to me at the time.

The car is miles ahead of where it was and it will definitely be fun to get out with this summer. Who knows, maybe I will actually keep this one for a while. The color has definitely won me over, and I cannot wait to drive it.

Originally Posted by Edgemontvillage
Graeme, great work on cleaning up the front end components. I noticed that you replaced the end link hardware with NOS parts and this may not matter, however the end link bolt with the WB (Wales-Beech) head marking used on 69's was a Grade 3 bolt with fine threads. For some larger GM vehicle applications the bolt used was instead a Grade 5, with 3 radial head markings as shown on your replacements, which is also course threaded. The correct bolt has no radial markings.

Always fun to learn a lot of things about these cars from you and others Lloyd, and thanks for the info on the bolts. The ones sourced will stay in place and although they do have the radial markings, I'm just fine with these in there. I'm trying to clean it up some while addressing some obvious concerns during the process. In doing so, I am sure there will be a few errors but I do appreciate being corrected as there is always more to learn with these cars.

Again...thanks for chiming in. :biggthumpup:

[NorCam]

And thanks for the earlier tip on the fuel pump plate color Lloyd. Painted the piece black yesterday and plan to mount it back onto the motor today. If all goes well with time management over the weekend, I will hopefully have the engine back in the car. Business is rolling for us here with large projects and that has been keeping me away from getting this car done as quickly as I had hoped, but here's what's keeping me motivated to some degree. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/R7xL75Y/IMG-0097.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/KLw6QcG/IMG-0099.jpg

[Crush]

Every time I open this thread I look forward to the updates and also anticipating the car is for sale!?
Either way well done and I respect the work and detail. I am “ cleaning” and updating a vehicle in a similar fashion and with the weather improving I am anxious to take it for a spin!!

[Edgemontvillage]

Just having some fun here Sam. The mission to clean it up did change a bit as I have gotten into this car but was never to restore or overcorrect things along the way. Things that are easily cleaned and/or touched up during the process have been done along the way, and any pre-existing service parts that were incorrect to the car have been replaced with the best originals available to me at the time.

The car is miles ahead of where it was and it will definitely be fun to get out with this summer. Who knows, maybe I will actually keep this one for a while. The color has definitely won me over, and I cannot wait to drive it.



Always fun to learn a lot of things about these cars from you and others Lloyd, and thanks for the info on the bolts. The ones sourced will stay in place and although they do have the radial markings, I'm just fine with these in there. I'm trying to clean it up some while addressing some obvious concerns during the process. In doing so, I am sure there will be a few errors but I do appreciate being corrected as there is always more to learn with these cars.

Again...thanks for chiming in. :biggthumpup:

Glad to read that you're taking the input in the same spirit it was intended. You're working with a great original car. Keep up the good work.

[NorCam]

It only took me a couple of weeks but I finally got back to work and bled the brakes off today. The power steering box is installed and everything is ready for the motor to go back into the car now. I still have a couple of little things like the original washer motor and the water pump to install tomorrow morning and then I'll press to get the motor in and the car finished up.

This one will be going up for sale when it's done. I have another Day II build to start right after this one.


https://i.ibb.co/BjCLZhd/IMG-0276.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vdz5PYV/VQLE2821.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ssT72d9/FMKZ7598.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jZW5j12/JQXP4008.jpg

[Zedder]

Damn...I wish our dollar didn’t suck!

[NorCam]

Damn...I wish our dollar didn’t suck!

Yup...it'll be priced in USD, and it's likely headed back to the US. :flag:

[ZLP955]

Yup...it'll be priced in USD, and it's likely headed back to the US. :flag:
Sounds like you have a fish on the hook already!

[NorCam]

After getting the brakes finished up and flushing the fluids, I set out to detail a few more bolts with the water pump and crank pulley installed. With the help of my son, we then stabbed the motor back in tonight. This week I will get the transmission back in and start with all the other peripherals including the smog and the exhaust. Slow and steady wins the race they say.

https://i.ibb.co/FzWqSRf/IMG-0346.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/H4D6b5s/IMG-0349.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/BcLbVWq/IMG-0347.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0Ff53F5/IMG-0351.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vL7m7js/IMG-0343.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JqsbHVP/IMG-0352.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/PZb03vG/IMG-0358.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Tk0kC5M/IMG-0365.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1MLCtph/IMG-0366.jpg

[Zedder]

Lookin’ good Graeme! After you finish the yellow car...you should really do a nice 67 Camaro SS ��

[NorCam]

It's the constant love affair I have with the 69 body style that keeps this cycle going, Mark. The yellow car is one I want to do with my son to pass the torch so-to-speak.

I'm thinking I'll be done with major restorations after that one is complete?

:haha: :haha: :haha:

[Zedder]

[QUOTE

I'm thinking I'll be done with major restorations after that one is complete?

:haha: :haha: :haha:[/QUOTE]

I’ll bet against that comment all day long!

Love that you are passing the torch. My 20 year old Son just recently mentioned that he’d like to get a C3 Corvette. I’m thrilled that we can enjoy that together and go to shows etc. We’ve started looking, but Covid-19 has killed our dollar making a US purchase difficult to justify.

[BJCHEV396]

Sounds like you have a fish on the hook already!

Not a "fish" but a lucky son of a gun who buys this beauty! Lol.

[Crush]

That’s for sure!!

[napa68]

[QUOTE

I'm thinking I'll be done with major restorations after that one is complete?

:haha: :haha: :haha:

I’ll bet against that comment all day long!

Love that you are passing the torch. My 20 year old Son just recently mentioned that he’d like to get a C3 Corvette. I’m thrilled that we can enjoy that together and go to shows etc. We’ve started looking, but Covid-19 has killed our dollar making a US purchase difficult to justify.[/QUOTE]

I'm with Zedder. I would have bet you could have been bullied into pulling the subframe. Guess that's why I'm not in Vegas:)

[NorCam]

LMAO

Wasn't pulling the subframe on the blue car and knew that from the start. Car simply didn't need it and I wasn't disturbing those nice original body cushions.

Now the yellow car may be another story. But it's a pretty clean subframe as well so who knows. :grin::grin::grin:

[NorCam]

As for having a fish on the line...

I had a handful of people ask to be notified if the car was ever offered for sale, but have already shortened that list.

As the car draws near to the final stages of the cleanup, I'm thinking I'm going to hang onto this one and have a pair of clean Z's when the yellow one is done. Two Zappers with two very distinctive purposes. One with a number's matching original driveline and clean original sheet metal, and one that's nicely restored as a super clean Day II street machine. Best of both worlds and a couple of bug-eye cars in two of my favorite colors. :biggthumpup:

This car is going to stay put for now. Cheers

[NorCam]

I got a little time to work on the car this afternoon and had some help to get the transmission back into the car. The shifter is back in and adjusted nicely and the original cross member is now drying in the paint room. I swapped out the handle for a nice original I picked up from Rich but still need to locate my chrome shifter ball. Shop is a mess right now and can't find nothin'. lol


https://i.ibb.co/NxV2G4x/IMG-0394.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/3rjh7mG/IMG-0401.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/FV4FHJr/IMG-0399.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/yfw4ncJ/IMG-0398.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vX456zs/IMG-0408.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/z4cM5C9/IMG-0413.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vQ0btQ7/IMG-0412.jpg

[NorCam]

With the block stamp posted on the previous page and the transmission stamp above...it's only fitting to post one more of the rear end stamp after cleaning up the housing and blowing in some paint. Aside from the engine VIN stamp posted early in this thread, this puts a wrap on the drive-train numbers and stampings for this car. The transmission and shifter went back in as untouched and were not cleaned at all. Hoping to finish the car over the next several days and hang the new exhaust before I get it rolling again.

https://i.ibb.co/FXPLsMG/IMG-0409.jpg

[NorCam]

I started getting the rest of the engine peripherals cleaned up and ready to go back onto the Motor yesterday. The first thing I needed to do was mockup the pullies and get a new belt ordered that would include the air pump. Today I will tighten everything down, install the exhaust manifolds and smog trees, and run the power and ground cables. It's gonna look sweet once it's all back together. A little bit of new mixed in with some of the old stuff.


https://i.ibb.co/zVhXCQ9/IMG-0432.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/HnLGz57/IMG-0429.jpg

[NorCam]

Prepping the block offs for the smog trees before the manifolds go back on. Smog pump has been deveined and will be non-functional in this car. Restored J-16 starter is going in today and this original 9E23 alternator will be cleaned before it's mounted up today. Lot's going on now as I work to get this finished.

https://i.ibb.co/d2GbK7z/IMG-0441.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/tJfMYFF/IMG-0442.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/PjjqRCS/IMG-0443.jpg

[NorCam]

Also took a few interior shots now that everything is finished up inside the car and everything was thoroughly cleaned. An all survivor original interior that's in remarkable condition throughout. I stored the original floor mats away to protect them and installed a set of repro's for use while the car is being enjoyed this summer. Still wears all original door panels and carpets throughout. :)

https://i.ibb.co/1Lnpmkq/IMG-0416.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wN8pLyd/IMG-0417.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0BjT5y6/IMG-0418.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6JbxrZd/IMG-0420.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/SVHc9t2/IMG-0424.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MGK4Ccs/IMG-0423.jpg

[NorCam]

Still working away here. Installed the correct spacer for the driver's side motor mount stop bracket and finished up the rear cross member last night. Was it normal to have two stop lift change orders in a late car? This car has the stop lift cable as well as the stop lift bracket on the driver's side mount!

Carrying on with a few smaller things...the starter and its support bracket are now installed, the reverse lockout was reconnected last night, and I've started installing the exhaust manifolds and smog trees. I need to go back and fit the heat shields in there before I get too far ahead of myself. Heading back out so I can try and get a full day in today.

https://i.ibb.co/NtFPBQh/IMG-0448.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Y3Mrd35/IMG-0451.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/FhHZGjY/IMG-0449.jpg

[Crush]

Great work!!

[rszmjt]

[QUOTE=NorCam;1500395]Still working away here. Installed the correct spacer for the driver's side motor mount stop bracket and finished up the rear cross member last night. Was it normal to have two stop lift change orders in a late car? This car has the stop lift cable as well as the stop lift bracket on the driver's side mount!




When GM had the safety recall for motor mounts around Dec/1971, the mounts were changed as well as the cables/brkts installed. The original stop lift bracket was usually removed with the old mounts. This problem was solved when GM went to the clam shell type mount.

Here are some originals for my own Z28 I’ve had for many years .

[NorCam]

Finished buttoning up under in, and around the engine bay. Here are a few shots of the bottom side front suspension after all the cleanup and light restoration work. I am very happy with the overall results. A little cleanup, a little touch-up, and a little patina to balance it all out.


https://i.ibb.co/dQpP1PJ/IMG-0508.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7ycwzYv/IMG-0509.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/N7h3x8k/IMG-0510.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/G3KBrHG/IMG-0511.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/8Py3KY6/IMG-0512.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dLfdHBR/IMG-0513.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/NFQGv0C/IMG-0514.jpg

[NorCam]

Here's a before and after shot of the floors prior to cleaning and after it's all been detailed. Now to balance the original driveshaft and get all the exhaust hung. Soon it will be done!

https://i.ibb.co/X5TwH6d/IMG-8168.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/yqHPxn3/IMG-0506.jpg

[NorCam]

And here are a group of pictures taken of the engine bay this weekend. I have to reattach the original UH radiator tag and clip the shroud on it this morning and then I can start adding some fluids. From there it's time for exhaust, prime the oil pressure, and set the distributor back in with some new wires. I can actually see the light now. (lol)

https://i.ibb.co/P6fWhzQ/IMG-0476.jpg
Some NOS plugs I got from Rob Richter

https://i.ibb.co/L6q9b7w/IMG-0529.jpg
Original battery tray. A little pitted but it will do just fine!

https://i.ibb.co/GdJnsj5/IMG-0467.jpg
Cleaned up a lot of the original bolts and like them just as cleaned.

https://i.ibb.co/b2wgYmc/IMG-0466.jpg
Tightening up the alternator brackets with original fasteners.

https://i.ibb.co/Cs3BxHf/IMG-0462.jpg
Torquing down the original balancer bolts and the lower pulley.

https://i.ibb.co/Kx7N33K/IMG-0461.jpg
Original smog pump pulley after a coat of paint and a few new scratches (lol).

https://i.ibb.co/tKLw0KR/IMG-0519.jpg
NOS locks securing some NOS bolts for the exhaust manifolds.

https://i.ibb.co/bQM53P4/IMG-0520.jpg
A shot of the driver's side exhaust after everything was tightened up.

https://i.ibb.co/xfqRZyg/IMG-0521.jpg
Power steering which I added to the car. (original steering box kept aside)

https://i.ibb.co/t8JDZNN/IMG-0525.jpg
Hoses and Alternator cables have all been routed with dated NOS tower clamps used.

https://i.ibb.co/Vxq3tGW/IMG-0526.jpg
Correct ribbed heater hoses with original clamps & hardware securing them.

https://i.ibb.co/k593P2r/IMG-0528.jpg
All original smog system with original hoses, clamps, and hardware.

[napa68]

Looks awesome Greame!

[NorCam]

Here's one last group of engine shots before everything is finished up and I add the exhaust pics later this week. Once the oil is primed and it's fired back up and tuned, I'll put the hood back on and take a final round of celebratory pictures. Yes...meaning it's done! Stay tuned as I'll soon have it out for a few shakedown runs and a couple of burnouts.

https://i.ibb.co/n8SGdPm/IMG-0532.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/LZj8Khq/IMG-0537.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0ZZ29zv/IMG-0542.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/fF6XbGc/IMG-0530.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k8s7LQF/IMG-0541.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/30GWPyg/IMG-0540.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9b2LBfh/IMG-0539.jpg

[Lynn]

Same date as the carb I have for sale. I think you need a spare.

Car looks great. I know some would say "over restored", but I do them like this as well.

[ZLP955]

Looks great!

[Tracker1]

Perfect, just perfect. Love how it turned out!

[GrumpyJeff]

Car Looks great !!!! I agree Cars done perfectly, while I'm not a big fan of restrored cars. I love the nice "Natural" look to everything. Killer Job Graeme ! thanks for documenting all this with us

[NorCam]

Car Looks great !!!! I agree Cars done perfectly, while I'm not a big fan of restrored cars. I love the nice "Natural" look to everything. Killer Job Graeme ! thanks for documenting all this with us

Thanks Jeff...

I was originally planning just a minor clean up and changing out a few incorrect parts, but admit it did morph into something bigger. Even with that, I was not intending to over restore anything, just clean it up...detail what I could while I was already in there and make sure the sum of the parts were better-matched when I was done than what they were heading into it.

Along the way some of the car was thoroughly cleaned, a few small areas were blown in or restored and much of that IMO was done better than the previous owners' attempt. The brakes were completely rebuilt using much of the original parts, the fuel system was redone, and the engine was further detailed to finish it off better now than it was previously, but still has some patina on the top end.

I'm more than tickled that a few others share an interest in these cars on sYc and the various ways in which one can approach a cleanup or mild restoration like this. At the same time...I'm totally digging the car and its cleanup and that's all that matters at the end of the day.

And for those who have offered advice or parts along the way...Thank you! :youguysrock:

[NorCam]

Capped off the exhaust system install today and love how it rounded out the appearance on the underside of the car. I should have it tuned and running just in time for the driveshaft to come back from balancing this week. Can't wait to put some miles on it soon. :3gears:

https://i.ibb.co/hB3zpLs/IMG-0669.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gSnd2ys/IMG-0662.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JHzt5NZ/IMG-0644.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gr006XS/IMG-0674.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/0J03rz5/IMG-0665.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/st39ZPC/IMG-0653.jpg

[Lynn]

Love the chrome tips. Looks awesome. Guess you are getting tired of hearing that, right? Yeah, right.

Original paint car, right? Love the orange peel on the lower valance. Your car got WAY more paint than mine did at the factory. Mine had no orange peel on the lower valance from the factory, because they didn't shoot enought paint to orange peel.

Mine had primer showing at the lower 1 inch on pars of the lower rear valance. I couldn't bring myself to replicate that when I painted it (for the first time) in 2012. That's what I meant by "over restored" in my previous post. I hope you took no offense at all to that. Looking at the underside of your car, I just know few, if any of these cars, looked so good from day one. I restored mine to a level of what it WOULD have looked like had every guy or gal on the line taken their time and done the best they could. One example: the lead filled seam between the roof and quarter was horrible. Really wavy on BOTH sides. Yes, you are damn right I "over restored" it. I re-leades it, and then used maybe 1 cc of filler to make it perfect. I HATE wavy panels.

Great job. This will be a fun driver.

[NorCam]

This one is not original paint Lynn. :worship:

The 3rd owner had the car repainted in the early '90s after hitting a dear. The interior is all original, the trunk is all original, and it still wears original sheet metal but has had one repaint. That is why I put all the effort into the car to clean and preserve those original floors.

I appreciate all your comments and your feedback Lynn and have always liked your Black Z. And for the record, I would not call it over-restored. Your car looks awesome and I truly love what you've done with it.

:Can-I-Have-It:

[x77-69z28]

Very inspirational Graeme! I gotta get out of quarantine and get to work on my cars!
Buddy

[Mr.Nickey Nova]

Look's great Graeme. I'm sure the exhaust fit like a glove. So, are you keeping this one?? Hope you are...

[NorCam]

Thanks,

Yes, I am planning to hang onto this one for a while.

I'll also be starting on the next project later this summer along with my son. The plan includes the two of us restoring a 76/76 Daytona Yellow car with 714 yellow Houndstooth interior. It'll be a full on Day 2 build with a host of good speed parts. More on that after it's started up.

On this one, the finishing details continue. The driveshaft is balanced with new u-joints and is now back in the car. Rear-axle stops are installed, the fuel system is plumbed, and the oil has been primed. We also corrected some front end fasteners yesterday and it's pretty much ready to roll here. I need to wire in the distributor tonight and add some fluids before firing it up for the first time since November. Here are a few more pictures as it's been finished up.


https://i.ibb.co/KjGG2Q7/IMG-0659.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Lr81PyG/IMG-0692.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/10mgf00/IMG-0706.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/kXp2qwc/IMG-0701.jpg

[NorCam]

Well...I finally got some time to address a couple of last-minute items and rolled the car outside to fire it up yesterday. With rolling storms through here most of the day, it was quickly put back in the shop with a few heavy downpours that took away the chance of a cruise yesterday. :burnout:

Car is smooth and quiet compared to others I have built, but then I have never owned one that was as true to factory originality & its numbers as this car. The Gardner exhaust with the resonators keeps it fairly tame until you wake it up but that was to be expected. The next step is to put a timing light on it...then clean the tires and torque down the wheels. Then it's ready for a couple of shakedown miles out here in the Rocky Mountains of Western Canada.

Trust me when I say I am totally ready for that! :beers:

K3QngP_n7iY

[NorCam]

I should also throw out a big thanks to my oldest son Devon who was quite involved with the finish work on the car. He's turned into quite the graphics wizard and he also put together the video of the car being fired up yesterday. Hood goes on this morning and some cruise video to follow in the days ahead.

https://i.ibb.co/QcK70tV/IMG-0741.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/RpZLZs8/IMG-0759.jpg

[cruiserofland]

Awesome stuff. As an aspiring owner myself, it's a joy to follow along on your journey with this car, especially with the video accompaniment. Can't wait to see it drive!

[NorCam]

Cheers to that...and welcome to the site.

[luv2sixty9]

Why are you selling it already? I thought you were going to enjoy it for while first. GLWS as I see the sale is pending!

[NorCam]

That was answered in the sale listing Dave.

Just for the record, I was going to keep this one but with another Z/28 on the way to me now and another car I am interested in buying, I am trying to make the necessary room.

I also didn't want to have two Z/28 cars sitting next to each other in the garage. One is sufficient enough.

[luv2sixty9]

Cool...Hopefully it goes to a nice home.

[jl8z28]

That serial number is close to mine and its a 11A build date but my trans stamp is p9R 21 A

[NorCam]

Cool...Hopefully it goes to a nice home.

The car has gone to a great home Dave. The new owner is a recent member of sYc and came out to inspect the car yesterday. He's excited to get it home to BC's Okanagan Valley where it will now become a stablemate to his Corvette. It will also be in close company with the Rally Green Z/28 I finished restoring last year since both cars are in the same community.

Now...on to the next Z/28 project which arrives here next week.:beers:

[napa68]

Didn't think that would take long.

Congrats to all!

[big gear head]

I looked through the pictures, but didn't see a good picture of the back side of the power steering pump. Does this look like the same pump that you used on this car?

[NorCam]

I don't have a picture of the pump Freddie but believe that is the correct return outlet.