slow heating

[m22mike]

Carl
B4 you go messing with the stat to much, add a shroud, good advice already mentioned.
Check the cap to see if it is holding @ 15#
If you do get to the stat add the 1/8" hole like Paul said, can't hurt.
As far as the stat, I do not always agree with going with a lower * stat, a 160 stat is not going to make a engine magically run cooler and may in fact make it run even hotter. Give the engineers some credit. A 160 stat will allow hot collant to run around without the proper dwell time it needs inside the radiator.
I run my L78 4.10 Camaro with a 195 stat and a 4 core radiator
and it runs cool even in traffic.

[WILMASBOYL78]

If that is a Nova then the radiator is completely wrong...also must have a shroud!! It appears to have a short water pump..is this a 68..?? the 68's had a fatory clutch fan with 5 blades. I also see a vacuum tube for the tranny...but, I don't see cooling lines..??

If you run the correct radiator and shroud, a good fan and the 160* stat..you should be fine. After those addtions you can look at fuel/timing issues to make it even better...if you need more info send me a PM.

wilma

[Salvatore]

usually if there is no stat at all it will cause an overheating problem. I also like the idea of a richer carb mixture, checking the rad cap, plus a shroud. Water wetter is a good idea too. I like that stuff.

[SS427]

Looks like a 67 SS396 Impala and you are in fact missing the #3903958 fan shroud. Not a real easy item to come by.

[WILMASBOYL78]

Somebody mentioned Nova in an earlier post??...thougt those were big car exhaust manifolds...wilma

ps..the storms over here...just a few rain drops left [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]

[markjohnson]

I gotta agree with the group here that says &quot;get a fan shroud&quot;. An engine-driven fan like that is absolutely useless without having a shroud to direct the air flow thru the radiator. Also, that type fan shown is notorious for not moving much air with its' semi-flat blades with not much pitch. A nice, 5-bladed clutch fan would do wonders when coupled with a good shroud.

[COPO 70 RS/Z28]

Sorry, I thought I mentioned it is a 67 impala. Kwizz, psyco some others know the car. I didn't want to run a shroud if at all possible i'm trying to keep the factory look. The radiator has been recored since the photo.



I was trying to keep the car stock, it does have an aftermarket exhaust, it is the born with drivetrain. The assembly manual does not indicate a shroud, the radiator frame is not set up for a shroud. I was thinkig of running a clutch fan.Also I was almost thinking maybe running the colder stat (180)was allowing the coolant to run to fast, Ill try some of the suggestions

[njsteve]

First things first, do you actually have a problem:

You indicate that it will slowly heat up: what temp does it heat up to? Do you have a real mechanical gauge or an infrared heat gun to check the actual temp? Never trust the factory electrical gauge.

Remember, some of those so-called NOS temp sending units are way off when it comes to accuracy. Most aftermarket ones are crap, too.

I had one supposed resto sending unit that made the gauge read 220 when the car was at 160 - on my 72 T/A. Don't even get me started on the Chrysler combination temp gauge and voltmeter that moves up with the rpms and falls when you let off the gas. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

A vintage sender is the best bet for accuracy. Second best was the Wells TU5.

Here's some info when I tested a few senders:

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...070&amp;page=2

[COPO 70 RS/Z28]

It's mech guage, I was originally running a 195 and the guage would show 195 to 200 while driving, with the 180 stat the guage shows around 185 running. It was not guaged before and the sender must have been bad because it bulged the tanks (harrison) end of last year. I was able to save the tanks with the recore.

[Fast67VelleN2O]

Is the mechanical gauge plumbed into the head or the intake manifold?