1970 Chevelle LS6

[dustinm]

Originally Posted by Charley Lillard

If you pull the car down with straps and then tighten the bolts doesn't that just put a strain on the bushings as they are trying to return to neutral all the time ?

What I believe they are trying to do here is have the bushings at a neutral state/ ride height when tightening.

You are correct they will wear out faster if bound up on install, but with these cars even if they cheat them are they going to see enough miles to even break in?

[SS427]

Originally Posted by dustinm

What I believe they are trying to do here is have the bushings at a neutral state/ ride height when tightening.

You are correct they will wear out faster if bound up on install, but with these cars even if they cheat them are they going to see enough miles to even break in?

That is correct. Tighten when the chassis is fully assembled with no body but pulled down to it's ride height. When the body is lowered onto the chassis it 'should' settle at its neutral position. Would tightening be better after the car is on the frame? Yes but it is VERY hard to get at the two bolts above the muffler. Also, the factory set the ride height on the chassis before the body was mounted from everything I have read so I am only repeating what was done originally.

[Damien]

I tried 2 other sets of front springs for my Chevelle before trying the set of 2" lowered fronts springs I had sitting on the shelf for 3 years.
Never thought they would be the answer but I think it's pretty close.