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#1
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Here are a couple of products I used to clean my engine compartment. Thought it may help.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Crush For This Useful Post: | ||
67since67 (02-04-2022) |
#2
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Thank you! Always ready to try something new. The Purple Power wouldn't touch this grime, but the product on the left looks interesting. - Bill W
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#3
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I found you need to be care ful with the scotch pads as they can scratch. I have even used very fine steel wool. The citrus stuff and simple green works when you let it soak. In the end it will look much better!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Crush For This Useful Post: | ||
67since67 (02-04-2022) |
#4
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No scotchbrite or other abrasives used used here. Just Alum Brightener applied with microfiber cloths followed by wax. Also some items into the Evapo-Rust. Last edited by 67since67; 01-30-2022 at 03:36 PM. Reason: Stupid spell check! |
#5
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A few numbers:
The trim tag indicates a Fisher body date of 10B at the Fremont CA plant, the 95th Concours body for Fremont production. The block casting number is blocked by the Powerglide kick down bracket but with a mirror I was able to verify 3892657, the correct block for all '67 327 until late '67 production. Block casting date is H306, August 30 '66). Stamp V0915EC, Flint September 15, EC = L30 327 A/T AIR. 61 Amp alternator 6J12, September 12 '66 0711 brake booster, power drum brake, Julian date 220 Barely visible is wiper motor yellow ink Julian date 206 Large rad tag is gone but small tag CF Note chalk mark on RH cyl head |
#6
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My Intension is to keep painting to bare minimum. Exception, the water pump. It had a parts store pump with a loose bearing. I ordered up a properly dated 608 pump from Bill Mock, it came bare cast, so I rattle-canned a fog of orange, thin enough to not appear fresh.
The timing cover has obviously been removed, so thinking the chain and nylon gear were replaced at some point. |
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