![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#141
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
New control arm bushings, moog ball joints, moog coil spring, and amk hardware. I also installed factory disc brake spindles. This car will be driven often. I'll take better photos of the process when I do the other side.
As mentioned before, my immediate goal is to get the car safely on the road as soon as possible while preserving it's "as found" character. Parts for a correct restoration are being collected in the meantime and all take off parts including original hardware are being bagged and tagged for restoration. I will admit I cheated in that I have some factory Kent Moore tools and a electric hydraulic shop press which made the job much easier. Having a factory service / overhaul manual makes it even easier. Trick to install lower ball joint boot: I bought a 2" abs plastic pipe. And simply used a rubber mallet went on easy peazy. If using the hook style coil spring compressor the trick to getting the hooks out is to remove through bottom shock mount hole. Let one side out, and the other side will be stuck between coils. Simply use a big pry bar, open up the spacing between said coils just enough to free up the other hook and push out the bottom. I removed the factory riveted ball joint from the upper control arm by first drilling a small crater in the center of each end of the rivet followed by hitting each one with an air chisel. Once each head of the rivet was removed I swapped the chisel for a tapered punch and knocked them all out. There was a small crack on the frame where the upper shock mount is but I simply drilled it and hit it with the mig and ground it down. It passed the strength test after using the coil spring compressor. No flex and no cracking. The original ball joints were toast and the shock cushions were toast which is why I believe the frame cracked in that spot. After the front suspension/brakes are done I'm going to remove the cracked windshield, install the headliner, reinstall new windshield. I figured its nice to stand between the frame rails to get the job done. |
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to jbtech For This Useful Post: | ||
COPO (08-03-2022), dykstra (11-08-2022), juliosz (07-24-2023), olredalert (08-03-2022), PeteLeathersac (08-03-2022), SuperNovaSS (08-03-2022) |
#142
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Making progress !!
From my trucking life, I have a socket set that goes up to 3 1/2". There is a socket in there that fits those boots too. You did position the bleed slot correctly, right ... ![]()
__________________
Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#143
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yep I don't have sockets that big and deep are those 3/4"?. Yes the bleed slot is in correct position.
|
#144
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Actually, that set is 1". I have another set that only goes to 2 3/4" that is 3/4" drive
__________________
Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#145
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Life has been busy but I managed to remove the cracked windshield. I'm pleasantly surprised at the level of rust.
Next goal is to tackle the headliner. |
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to jbtech For This Useful Post: | ||
169indy (10-17-2022), Copo_Cartel (10-18-2022), cruiserofland (10-17-2022), Dave Rifkin (10-17-2022), dykstra (11-08-2022), olredalert (11-04-2022), PeteLeathersac (10-17-2022), Tracker1 (10-17-2022) |
#147
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I've managed to get the used headliner fitted and it will be glued in within the next couple days. I'm content with the fitment as it is my first time installing a headliner.
Some of the tips that helped me most was: Pre-installing all screws before installing the headliner Fitting the front center and rear center of the headliner first Pulling the sides of the headliner AT the bows, not between I'm very lucky to be in contact with the original owner as we talk weekly. Every time we speak I get to learn a little more about the history of the car. He said the fastest time he's ever run the 1/4 mile was in the high 11's with the car "everything hooked up right and that was a fast time back then.. I think that's the only time I ran an 11" Bruce says the 11 was at National Trail during a time trail. Usually the car would run 12's and the occasional 13's. He said he polished the inside of the intake himself, ran headers, line loc, and his homemade traction bars because the "damn rear end wouldn't stop jumping up and down and I thought... I could solve that". I asked him if the car had a name and he said no he didn't want it all lettered up. "But I did have that BC 1200 plate, for years all my buddies would call me BC!" So I asked if that was a real Ohio plate or something he had made. It was the real Ohio plate. He responded, "Well back then we'd go up to Northern Ohio near Cleveland, I believe the place was Euclid, and all you had to do was give the counter worker a $20 dollar bill and they'd set your plate up how you wanted, a lot of people would go up there, and that's how I got the BC!" I asked if the 1200 had any meaning and he said, "No they'd just set you up with a good number; I wanted my initials BC on the plate" At one point I asked how to pronounce his last name and he said "Bruce CreMEAN... emphasis on the MEAN!" and we both laughed. Last edited by jbtech; 11-03-2022 at 07:15 PM. |
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to jbtech For This Useful Post: | ||
dykstra (11-08-2022), juliosz (07-24-2023), L_e_e (11-03-2022), olredalert (11-04-2022), R68GTO (11-03-2022), RPOLS3 (11-08-2022), SuperNovaSS (11-04-2022), Xplantdad (11-04-2022) |
#148
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Headliner installation complete! I don't think I did too bad considering it was my first time. I made a repair to one of the original GM sail panels but it worked.
To install the rear glass trim I used a small rubber mallet and placed a small paper towel between the rear glass and mallet, sliding the mallet against the glass carefully bumping the trim into place. Also, I have a lead on the salesman who worked at Bobb Chevrolet that may have ordered my car originally. His name is Mike Cassidy and I'm working to make contact. Bruce says the salesman was about the same age, turns out this guy is the same age (80 now) and also owned a Bobb Chevrolet sponsored 1968 Camaro SS 396 Convertible. (Last pic) I was told by Ronnie Crawford that the gentleman pictured on the right is Mike Cassidy who was a Bobb Chevrolet Salesman. Ronnie was another local racer who said all the Central Ohio guys used to caravan together to different tracks. Last edited by jbtech; 11-08-2022 at 04:35 AM. |
The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to jbtech For This Useful Post: | ||
1967Z28 (11-08-2022), big gear head (11-08-2022), dykstra (11-08-2022), juliosz (07-24-2023), L78_Nova (11-08-2022), olredalert (11-08-2022), PeteLeathersac (11-08-2022), SuperNovaSS (11-08-2022), Xplantdad (11-08-2022) |
![]() |
Tags |
1967, 396 ss, l78 camaro |
|
|