![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#11
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Stefano
Anyone I know??? |
#12
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Yes,it is a board member, but I was told not to say anything or I would get an early X-mas gift. Cement snow boots [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
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#13
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<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>
However I also found that when we cut the compression back to 10:1 the car felt stronger. <hr></blockquote> Interesting...I've always felt the L-78/L-72/LS-6 craved compression, and it seems as the compression rises, so does power (the break-over point seems to be 13:1). Case in point: Jensen's Chevelle just ran a [email protected], and he is right at 12:1, in Pure Stock form, and he is considering "Certifying" this car. Our L-72 has 10.2:1, and I wish it had 12.2:1... |
#14
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I knew he'd buy it!
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#15
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COPO PETE....
Where are you finding 6 bolt converters? I had to have my last one custom made. I was told by GM that only the new Jaguars are using the 6 bolt GM converters....Isn't that a FORD product? |
#16
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I've got a '69 Biscayne, Black, 335hp 427 auto originally, and raced in Stock class since day one. Original motor is long gone and have been thinking about 427/425 and going pure stock racing or returning it as a stock appearing race car. I'm also interested in 6 bolt converters and if they can be obtained remanufactured. Also pretty hard to check the guts of a converter, any fudging going on? Also, is it permissable to use superceded castings like NHRA & IHRA alow in stock classes? This would be cheaper and also retain the original dated stuff for keepers instead of sacrificing to the drag strip.
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#17
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A note on the converter. I've tried both ways (more and less stall), and the factory converter actually does seem to be about right...on the skinny tires. On stickies it's a different story. I don't know if Pete has done any experimenting with stall speed, but we had trans troubles the past couple of years, so had several opportunities to try different converters. Too tight, and it's lazy out of the hole...too loose, and it simply blows the tires away. So, Petey, is any of this close?
As for the superceded castings, you're supposed to have the right parts per your application (or supposed to anyway). Remember, if you don't certify, the 99% of the tech is done on the honesty policy, unless you are one of the unfortunate ones that gets to pull a valve cover. Some people stretch the rules, others don't. Whatever you decide, built it for Pure Stock and come play with us! |
#18
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The last 6 bolt I bought was off this board. They are out there, just look. A few guys on the Chevelle sight seem to have them occationally. I've never touched them internally. Just fill them with synthetic, and go. They are almost indestructable. I've seen them used on big blocks with 250 horse NOS, and they hold up fine. My white copo will just start turning the wheels at 2200 rpm.
Peter
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Pete Simpson 1962-2013 RIP Owen Simpson Eric Simpson |
#19
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Question ... In pure stock must you run smog stuff or is that overlooked. Headers ok or out? Is their a rule book I can buy like NHRA or is it more loose-leaf like some of the other racing I have seen.
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#20
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