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#2
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Have had some done along with referring friends to go there. The guys name is Steve Gregori. He plates polishes out pitts whatever you need. As far as color is concerned you can plate serveral in a row and get many different finishes. Here is a pic of a booster that he just did for me.
http://www.brakeboosters.com/ ![]() |
#3
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When plating a booster you can do 100 boosters one after the other and get many different finishes, the metal helps determine how light and dark the final outcome will be. There is no exact science to it.
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#4
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[ QUOTE ]
Have had some done along with referring friends to go there. The guys name is Steve Gregori. He plates polishes out pitts whatever you need. As far as color is concerned you can plate serveral in a row and get many different finishes. Here is a pic of a booster that he just did for me. http://www.brakeboosters.com/ ![]() [/ QUOTE ] I have used Steve as well..good results Sweet car Nasblu ![]()
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1969 9566AA COPO Chevelle M-22 1969 Malibu 489 ZL-1 T-56/4.56 1969 Beaumont 540 th400 3.70 1969 Chevelle 300 Deluxe 427 ZL-1 M 22W 1970 Olds 442 W 30 2 door post 1969 Ply. GTX 426 hemi auto. Blue. 1940 Dodge pick up Durango 4X4 1968 Camaro ragtop LSA ZL1 |
#5
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#6
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Thanks, I talked to steve today and will be sending him my parts.
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#7
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Steve did mine and happy with it
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69 ZL1 Camaro 70 Nova |
#8
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When plating a booster you can do 100 boosters one after the other and get many different finishes, the metal helps determine how light and dark the final outcome will be. There is no exact science to it. [/ QUOTE ] It has been my experiance (@ a US Naval Shipyard Plating plant) that the tint-coloration (Gold-Green-Yellow-Brown) tinting is determined by the duration of DiChromate treatment after the primary electroplating coating is applied, be it zinc, cad, etc,,, The surface condition can effect the level of 'Gloss' for lack of a better term (i.e. Brightness) Blasting parts prior to plating is usually not desired. It can be difficult to find local plate shops who even runs traditional cad tanks due to tightend eco rules (cyanide issues). It is amazing how much is plated on the cars when you really examine all the parts and you can save a ton ($$)on replacment costs if you can find a resonable priced plater to work with. ![]()
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69 Los Z11 68 SS/RS 396/325 68 Los Z28 ![]() |
#9
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Your right on about all the junk that has to be replated on a real restoration.
Here is stuff from a 69 Camaro. I usually spend north of $600 bux on one car. I am lucky to be able to get Cad done here. Much better protection than Zink. IMO. You are correct about the gold dichromate, dwell time affects the color. I have been doing my own booster because I do not like the supper shiny finish you sometimes get with the zinc. I do blast the parts, however I then spent X amount of time smoothing surfaces to be plated. Wire brush, scotch bright buffs, and impregnated nylon wheels. ![]() ![]() Here is one of Gregoris boosters in Zink..he does very nice work, and is fair priced too. ![]() |
#10
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Gregori did my booster as well. Very reasonable man and very through in his work.
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Snarl softly and carry a big stick! 1969 Hurst/Olds 13.26 @ 103.12 Pure Stock Rusty Small |
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