Car Trailer Advice

[Thomas]

I'm thinking of buying an enclosed trailer to haul my 2000 Camaro, which I am bracket racing, to the track and my 1969 Camaro to shows if the forecast does not call for sunny skies.

As I would like to sleep in the trailer at the track.
I've established that I need 24 feet.
I also think an RV door, with an inner screen door, would be a great idea.

The inside of a trailer is only 8 feet wide.
With the cars being 6 feet wide, it only leaves 1 foot to get the door open and get out of the car.
That just cannot be done.

My options are a left side door or a winch.
The left side door appears to be the cheaper option at $500.

If I decide to go for the winch, what capacity should it be?
As the cars both weigh 3,600 pounds I need to pull them, not lift them.

I am towing with a 2011 Ram 1500 Shortbox 4x4.
I ordered the trailering package, when I bought it, and that included the brake controller.
Do I need a weight distribution hitch?
What about sway control?

Are there any other features I should look for or get?

I realize that you can make the wish list of features a mile long, but I am trying to keep the costs down as low as possible.

Thanks in advance.

[Postsedan]

Here is what you need [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail...mp;startRow=381

Dan

[PxTx]

I was shopping for a used 24' but found a 28' in my price range. The 24' seem to be the most popular, so there can be deals found on 28' when shop ping used.

I've never felt like I had too much space in my trailer. Some added benefits are being able to fit the golf cart AND car together. I was going to install a winch, but the cart works well.

A torsion bar hitch is very nice. I recommend it. I have sway control, but don't use it.

[njsteve]

The left side door is a must. You need to be able to get in and out of your car without stepping on your seat, crawling out the open window, and squeezing down the side of the car. You can always buy a winch later. You can't always buy a door.

If your car sits too low for the car door to open and swing out the trailer door, you can do what I did: I built a set of internal wooden rails out of 2&quot;x10&quot; planks so the car can sit up a few inches higher in the trailer and the car door clears just fine.

With a 1500 short wheelbase chassis you definitely need the weight distributing bars and the sway control. The bars transfer a large amount of trailer weight (based on the bar rating, such as 1000 lbs per bar) to the entire truck instead of just onto the rear suspension. Without it, your truck will be just about popping a wheelie while driving with very litle weight on the front end. Remember the majority of your trucks braking (and 100% of its steering) is done with the front wheels. With no weight on it, it won't steer or brake in an emergency.

Get the heaviest duty axles you can get with the largest brakes they offer. Especially since you are pulling with a 1/2 ton chassis with minimal brake capacity. That loaded traler behind you will weigh more than your truck does.

I pull a 25-year old 24&quot; Pace trailer with my 1995 K2500 4x4 Diesel Suburban. Gets 9.2 mpg fulled loaded with a 4,000 lb car and 10.3 mpg with the trailer empty and 13.8 mpg on its own.

What fuel tank capacity do you have with that 1500? You're probably looking at 7 or 8 mpg towing.

[Thomas]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Postsedan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is what you need [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail...mp;startRow=381

Dan </div></div>

That is what I need, but that is not in my budget. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif[/img]

[Thomas]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pxtx</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was shopping for a used 24' but found a 28' in my price range. The 24' seem to be the most popular, so there can be deals found on 28' when shop ping used.

I've never felt like I had too much space in my trailer. Some added benefits are being able to fit the golf cart AND car together. I was going to install a winch, but the cart works well.

A torsion bar hitch is very nice. I recommend it. I have sway control, but don't use it.

</div></div>

I am limited to total weight of 8850 pounds by the towing capacity of my truck.
That is why I have to stick to a 24 ft. trailer.
With a 3,600 pound car, that leaves me approximately 1,000 pounds for things like a small generator, compressor, toolbox, etc...
The extra 4 feet would also not allow me to park it in my driveway as the tongue would hang over the sidewalk and, for some reason, people frown on that.

[Thomas]

I am not towing very far, as I am only 40 minutes from the dragstrip.
There is only one race weekend, this year, that is a bit further away, approximately 120 miles.
I don't really expect great gas mileage while towing.

So far you have all given me great advice.

It will make the shopping experience easier.

If I had deep pockets (and I sure don't...L-O-L) I'd get one of these from Pete Brock (yes, that Pete Brock!):

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...de=car_trailers

Perfect for me to tow behind my crew cab GMC 1500

Wayne