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#1
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I'm building a 3rd garage bay on my house and I'm hoping for a little guidance. This bay will be isolated from the other two that are used for daily drivers. I'm planning to have a 12 foot ceiling and a lift.
![]() It will mostly serve as storage for a concours restored Chevelle ![]() Thanks, Mark |
#2
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I can keep the humidity to below 30% at any given time in my garage. I put down some plastic on the slab,then carpet over that. My walls have r-13 and ceiling r-19,both are drywalled.No fans or a/c and it's always much cooler inside that out during the summer.During the winter I have a Modine garage heater and keep the temp at 50 except when I'm out there.I have not had any flash rust issues and have had freshly blasted parts laying around for weeks at a time without any problems.
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#3
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I would like to add that no mater how big you build it I would recomend that you make it wider and longer and taller. After you get it built and moved into you just may be disaponted by how tight space is on a single car garage.
remember that having the space to work on the car with both doors open and still have storage shelves on the walls is a real plus. If there is anyway make it two cars long. Put your lift on one end. You will always find something to fill the other end. Pantera
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70 BM Phase III GT Vette 69 BM SS427 GT vette? 69 L78 Nova 7k mi 73 Pantera 69 Vette B/P SCCA |
#4
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I agree ! Make it as big as you can afford and what the neighbors will tolerate!LOL You will be glad you did.I would bet if you took a poll of all of us that have built garages,vehicle storage facilities etc we all would say BIGGER IS BETTER! Think of it like buying a house when you first get married,more bedrooms are needed in the future for the kids right! Well more parking spaces are needed for the BABIES TOO!
![]() Bobby Dodson |
#5
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Thanks guys. I'm making the bay as big as I can within the required setbacks from septic and property line. I was considering a free-standing barn structure on the other side of my property but got some major sticker shock when I priced it out.
![]() So, I guess I'll just insulate and drywall the inside. I still plan to use my Car Jacket in the winter. Thanks! |
#6
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Dont forget to bring in some good heavy duty electric (220) and some H20. --- don't wait until later, it's a pain.
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"I never think of the future. It comes soon enough." - Albert Einstein |
#7
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66,I see you are in CT. If you have any concerns about moisture you have to check out a SaniDry unit from Basement Systems. Basement Systems is a company that was started in CT and is now worldwide. I have a SaniDry in my house and it is awesome. It is basically a super-duper dehumidifier. The salesman that I bought mine from is a car guy. E-mail me for his number. [email protected]
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#8
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I wonder how well that SaniDry unit works in an unheated area? I'll check it out. I had a regular de-humidifier in my current garage for a while and once the temp got below 40 degrees, the thing would run but no water would come out of the air.
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#9
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66, call Mike Lane @(203)592-9126. He is a geek, but a great guy! He can tell you ALOT about water and moisture. You should call him BEFORE you build a garage because they have all kinds of products for floors, walls, foundations, ect, ect. I am in Prospect CT and you are welcome to check out my SaniDry any time.
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#10
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Let me know if you have any questions. I have built quite a few...If you are only going one story put a 10 or 12 pitch roof and you will have some pretty nice storage. Also use TJI Truss Joists to get a clear span...Huge difference in price from 24' wide to 32' wide if you are considering that. Also put a alot of electrical in for welders,hot water, plasma, compressors,gunk tanks, ect. Plumbing for sinks, bathroom, outside frost free hydrants, ect. Dont build it so tight it cant breathe or you will be creating many future problems..let me know if I can answer any questions for you..
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SamLBInj 69 Z/28 X33D80 72-B H-D 105 FLSTC |
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