To rebuild or not rebuild, that's the question!

[tirebird]

I was talking with a local engine builder who works on regular cars and race vehicles too,..top notch. The subject of my engine came up and I told him I was thinking seriously of rebuilding the heads(#3964291), with new valves, hardened seats and new valve guides, rocker arms, etc. My engine only has about 24k and it leaks/burns a quart of 15w-50w Mobil 1 every 500 miles or so. Most of that I believe(by the puff of smoke when I start it warm) is from the original and infamous big block valve guides in combination with the super slippery Mobil 1.

But, the engine builder says it's a good time to do the block too,..new rings/bearings, polish the crank, new roller camshaft, etc. boring it .30 over.

My question is, I don't know if the "while we''re at it" argument is valid. I know any block can benefit from some freshening but I'm more than a little leary about "0" decking the block and erasing the "T0417CRR" numbers/letters off the front pad of this crate replacement LS6. Once they're gone they're gone and I will not go the "restamping" route or the acid route to reproduce or resurface those numbers.

What do you guys think?

Thanks

[@wot]

Rebuilding is your decision, but you can deck a block without touching the numbers. Good engine builders do it all the time.

[SamLBInj]

[ QUOTE ]
My question is, I don't know if the "while we''re at it" argument is valid. I know any block can benefit from some freshening but I'm more than a little leary about "0" decking the block and erasing the "T0417CRR" numbers/letters off the front pad of this crate replacement LS6. Once they're gone they're gone and I will not go the "restamping" route or the acid route to reproduce or resurface those numbers.

What do you guys think?

Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]
You have a CRR block or a CE block, CRR is not crate replacement its the code for 1970 Chevelle LS6.

[tirebird]

Sam. I should have said warranty replacement instead of crate. It was bought by the second owner from Berger Chevrolet in 1972.

Dean. I didn't know that, thanks. Sounds like I should shop for another engine builder.

John

[jfkheat]

Shouldn't a warrenty replacement engine have a CE number stamped on it?
James

[tirebird]

James,..this subject, the stamping on my engine, has been discussed before on this site with no clear resolution. All I do know, according to several articles written by the 2nd owner(original owner was B F Goodrich) in various hot rod publications, is that Berger Chevrolet sold him this engine in 1972 as a warranty replacement LS6. There's still some disagreement about whether it should have been labeled that way but all the arguments are immaterial at this time. That's the engine in my car with those stampings(block and head),.and I love driving it. I'm not a collector so I'm not worried about "flipping" the car for more money. However, I do want to keep it as original as possible unless it needs to be rebuilt, and that's why I'm asking the gearheads on this board for their opinion about rebuilding the block.

[Bill Pritchard]

Unless you're out to get the last bit of ultimate performance from your engine, or the 24K miles have been 'hard' miles, it's unlikely you really need a complete rebuild. Why not just pull the heads, have them freshened, and put them back on. If you still have oil consumption problems, then you will really know you need a short block rebuild. And as Dean says, any competent machine shop these days can leave the stamp pad untouched when decking the block.

[COPO]

I saw a '72 casting date CRR LS-6 engine on Ebay about a month ago.

[tirebird]

Thanks Bill, that's seems to be the consensus among my local buddies and the members of this board. It seems the prudent path and it's a lot cheaper than the engine rebuild.

John

[Charley Lillard]

One quart in 500 miles is nothing I would worry about. It's not your daily driver. I would leave it alone. I sure wouldn't bore it. 24000 miles it should not need a bore.