![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
What is the correct finish for the upper control arm cross shaft on a ls6? I did not see any inspection paint on the upper or lower control arms as I cleaned them,has anyone else found any on their's? if someone has pictures of a correct upper/lower a-arm assembly that has been restored,please send it to me.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I would leave that shaft Natural bare metal.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]() ![]() One of the BEST possible examples.......albeit this is Frank Arone's 69 COPO Camaro
__________________
Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks for the picture. Are the control arms supposed to be the same 60% gloss as the frame? Also, did you guys install all of the bushings/balljoints before or after painting? Do you put any special coating on the bare metal shafts and bushings to keep them from surface rusting?
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Rob,
Control arms are normally a little more glossier then the frame. I install the bushings before I paint the control arms and just mask them real well so as not to damage them trying to install on painted A-arms. Upper ball joints go in after painting. I seal all my unpainted surfaces with Boe-Shield. Rick |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Control arms are supposed to be 30% Glossy (according to Jerry M's book)
__________________
Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mbcgarage/ |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Some guys have talked about dipping the control arms. Any one else do this.
__________________
~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Rick, Here is a picture of some paint marks on the rearend of my ls6, the yellow paint almost looks like a 4, as in 4.10, did they ever mark any numbers on these?
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I think you have to stay true to your marque, because I think different plants did different things.
The Novas upper shafts are believed to have come black, because the control arm was painted as an assy sans ball joint. The large upper bushing washers are also supposed to be black on Novas. This per Wayne Bushey and the '70 L78 Giveaway car resto project.
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Rob,
Just about every 4:10 CRW coded rear I have seen has had a yellow paint 'blotch' on the top of the nose area of the center section, a yellow paint dab marking the location of the vent tube, a blue paint stripe near the right side shock mount (under the black paint) and an "X" on the rear end cover to name a few. Dennis C. and Dean R. both have good photos of their cars showing these same markings. I don't recall seeing any numbers written on them. By the way, your picture did not show up. ![]() Rick |
![]() |
|
|